($485, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Domaines & Saveurs Collection):  Clos de Tart is one of the most under rated grand crus of the Côte de Nuits.   Located in Morey St. Denis and owned entirely by the Mommessin family, it has been producing sensational wine since Sylvain Pitiot, who is obsessed with quality, took over as cellar master in 1996.  (There is no longer any connection between the Mommessin family and the négociant firm of the same name, the latter having been sold to Jean-Claude Boisset.)  Although the vineyard’s exposure, south-south east, is uniform, Pitiot has at least six different cuvees based substantial differences in the subsoil that he blends for the final wine.  The 2009 is simply sensational.  Glossy and deep, the slightly bitter cherry notes speak clearly of Morey St. Denis.  Signs of oak barrel aging are still apparent in this young wine, but it’s gorgeous balance and plenty of stuffing means all will come together seamlessly.  It’s not overwhelming power that impresses, but rather waves of flavor without a trace of heaviness or weight.  Pitiot was so pleased with the quality of the grapes in 2009 that he made no La Forge de Tart, their second wine.  The ‘09 Clos de Tart is the epitome of great Burgundy.  Those with deep pockets should buy it.  The rest of us can just dream.
97 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2012