($23, AP Wine Imports):  The importer told me that the Classic moniker is an attempt by producers to replace the halbtrocken (half-dry) designation and indicate a drier style of Riesling.  To my mind, this plethora of descriptors just muddies the already murky waters of trying to tell a consumer whether it’s a dry or sweet Riesling.  Why not dispense with the meaningless designations and adopt the International Riesling Foundation sweetness scale for the back label?  Labeling aside, this is a quintessentially lacey German Riesling walking the tightrope of sweetness and piercing acidity.  A riveting minerality and the lip-smacking citrus notes balance the touch of sweetness beautifully.  Perhaps Eser’s choice of a green bottle, usually reserved for wines from the Mosel, as opposed to the Rheingau’s traditional brown bottle, is better than any moniker to indicate that this wine is less ripe and drier–more Mosel than Rheingau-like.  Sip it as a refreshing aperitif or serve it with spicy Spanish or Asian dishes. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012