($25, Becky Wasserman Selection): A vintage like 2009, bathed in perfect weather during the entire growing season and through harvest, was especially beneficial to the lesser appellations that in poorer years suffer from under-ripe grapes that translate into thin wines. That’s why in 2009 a low prestige category, such as Bourgogne Rouge, from a conscientious producer, like Château du Chorey, is a bargain-priced over-achiever delivering far more than you’d expect. With the near magical combination of fruitiness and earthiness, this wine will delight both seasoned Burgundy fans and those who want to explore the region’s wines but don’t know where to start. Despite its lowly pedigree and reasonable price, it has the hallmark of Burgundy–flavor without weight. It’s a marvelous choice this winter for a simple roasted chicken. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2012