($35):  Sweet wines, such as this one (sold in a 375 ml bottle) with 23% residual sugar, need to be judged on their acidity, not their sweetness.  Without adequate acidity, the wine will be cloying and syrupy.  This one has fabulous enlivening acidity and verve that just amplifies the apricot-tinged flavors that explode on the palate.  Long and suave, with layers of dried fruit flavors and a honey-like richness, it’s wonderfully zesty and alive.  Have it with cheese or for dessert. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2012