($66, Louis Latour, USA): Village wines from Gevrey-Chambertin can be among the most disappointing red Burgundies because some growers think they can get away bottling anything and selling it under that famous name. Fortunately, this is not one of them. Quite the contrary, the complexity and finesse suggest a premier cru. Indeed, the superb 2009 vintage for red Burgundy gives consumers an opportunity to buy many village wines with the character of premier crus. Supple tannins are in perfect harmony with the ripe fruit, a hallmark of the 2009 vintage. A subtle intriguing leathery component complements its fruitiness. It’s a great village wine. You can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 13, 2011