($80, FWE Imports):  In contrast to Penfolds’ flagship wine, Grange, which is a multi-regional blend aged in American oak barrels, this stunning Shiraz comes exclusively from the Barossa Valley and is aged in large and small French oak barrels.  Not even a decade old–the RWT (Red Winemaking Trial) Shiraz debuted in 2000 with the 1997 vintage–it has already become one of Penfolds’ most sought-after wines.  And for good reason.  Reflecting its origins, the 2004 is opulent and succulent, but with balancing savory and earthy elements.  Despite its stated 14.5 percent alcohol, it’s bright and vigorous without a trace of heaviness or over ripe flavors.  Polished fine tannins allow enjoyment now with robust fare, such as grilled leg of lamb. 94 Michael Apstein May 31, 2011