($25, Underdog Wine Merchants):  Technically, a Gran Reserva from Rioja must spend a minimum of two years in oak and then must be held at the winery until the sixth year after the vintage.  In reality, the winemaker must believe the wine has the requisite quality and stuffing to gain complexity with barrel and bottle aging.  This one does.  It has the lovely combination of savory elements atop a fruity base that comes with proper aging.  Its silky texture is a result of tannins that have been polished and soften by time. You feel the effect of oak aging–suaveness–without tasting it. Lip-smacking black cherry-like acidity keeps you coming back for another sip.  It would be a good choice for a simply prepared steak or leg of lamb. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 1, 2011