($12, Pasternak Wine Imports):  The Clissages d’Or label is a part of the estate of Guy Saget, the very talented Loire producer, and represents their best vats of Muscadet.  And it is very good Muscadet, indeed.  It delivers the bracing vibrant–almost tooth rattling–acidity of Muscadet, but with an enticing chalky element and depth.  And with surprising length.  Hard to beat at 12 bucks, it would make a good zesty accompaniment to a platter of shellfish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011