($23, Vineyard Brands): The 2009 vintage was excellent in the Loire Valley, as it was in much of France. And this wine shows it. With many a Sancerre today coming across as dilute and lacking the unique character of the appellation, it’s a real pleasure to taste Delaporte’s. He marries the pungency of Sauvignon Blanc with the chalky earthiness of Sancerre, characteristic of the appellation. Intense without screaming, the explosive lemon-tinged finish invites another sip. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 28, 2010