($20, VOS Selections): Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, notes that it’s sometimes difficult to distinguish wines from adjoining appellations in the Loire because of overlapping and similar soils. That observation explains why wines from Ménétou-Salon, a small–just over 1,000 acres, not even a fifth the size of Sancerre–and less prestigious appellation, are a good alternative to Sancerre, especially when made by a talented producer such as this one. Similar to Sancerre, all the white wines from Ménétou-Salon are made from Sauvignon Blanc. Also similar to Sancerre, this domaine’s vines sit on Kimmeridgian marl, which accounts for an attractive minerality that underpins the citrus bite. Focused and long, it’s an excellent buy and would be a good choice for cutting the humidity of a summer’s day. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 3, 2010