($22, Folio Wine Company):  After his father died in 2000, Alvaro Palacios, one of the current superstars of Spanish wine, returned to run the family estate in Rioja.  He replanted the vineyard, modernized the cellar and discarded the traditional nomenclature of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva, terms that indicate the duration of aging prior to the wine’s release.  La Montesa, his “Crianza,” since it meets the aging requirements of a year in barrel and another in bottle before release, is a blend of mainly Tempranillo and Garnacha with small amounts of Mazuelo and Graciano.  It’s a stylish wine, with ripe fruit flavors and a deft use of oak aging.  It’s an ideal blend of “modern” and traditional Rioja with vivacity and a profile of velvety black fruit.  Its supple tannins make it fine for dinner with robust fare tonight.  A marvelous value. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 6, 2010