($14, Kermit Lynch):  Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards.  He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France.  Regulations for this broad appellation prohibit vintage dating so he uses Roman numerals to indicate the vintage.  It’s young, fruity, easy-to-drink wine that is lively and refreshing Beaujolais in every way except for the name. 88  Jun 29, 2010