($20, Kermit Lynch):  The word “barriques” (small, 225-liter French oak barrels) on a label of Pinot Blanc, a fairly delicate grape, is bound to dissuade many from tasting this wine.  It certainly put me off and I had every intention of not liking the wine.  But André Ostertag insisted I try it, noting that the wine stays in barrels, only 5% of which are new, for only 6 or 7 months.  What a surprise!  There’s the barest hint of oak that adds fullness without undermining the underlying vinous character.  The wine remains fresh and lively, perfect for summertime consumption.  I just wish he’d label it something else.  How about “Cuvée Speciale?” 88 Michael Apstein Jun 29, 2010