($17, Eric Solomon Selections): Val de Sil is one of the best producers in Valdeorras, a small (3,300-acre) and up and coming appellation in Spain’s northwest. The primary white grape here, the Godello, has enormous inherent acidity and hence the wines are fresh and lively with a penetrating citrus quality. Six months of lees aging (sobre lias) adds depth and complexity to this wine’s melony fruit and mineral character. It’s a good choice this summer for grilled fish. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010