($60, Moët Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house, some how fails to garner the attention it deserves. That’s a shame because their Champagne is flat out classy. Made entirely from Chardonnay (the definition of blanc de blancs), this one conveys an elegance and luxurious creaminess usually found only in the so-called “prestige” bottlings. It’s like drinking silk. 94 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010