($12, Vineyard Brands):  This wine is a little deceptive, in a nice way.  With the floral aroma reminiscent of Muscat, it temporarily tricks you into thinking it will be sweet.  But, it’s not.  Racy acidity enlivens the palate.  This versatile wine is equally at home as a before-dinner drink, to offset the heat of spicy Asian cuisine, or to complement roast pork.  And a bargain to boot. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2010