($14, Gascon USA): Malbec, a “forgotten” red variety from Bordeaux, has found a home in Argentina where it typically makes a big wine.  In that vein, this one has ripe black fruit–almost grapey–flavors, is slightly chewy and delivers a direct impact.  Mild polished tannins make it a good choice for hearty fare this winter. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2009