($22):  As Ed McCarthy, my colleague here at WRO, pointed out in a recent column, winemakers on Long Island’s East End are turning out some impressive wines.  And this is one of them.  Roman Roth, one of the area’s best winemakers and the brain behind winemaking at Wolffer Estate, also has his own label.   Despite Roth’s German heritage, his Riesling does not fall into the typical fruity (off-dry) style for which that country is known.  Rather, it’s dry and racy with an alluring earthy, almost chalky, minerality.  It challenges the conventional wisdom that the Finger Lakes region in upstate New York is the place for Riesling.  It easily does double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or a match for a wide variety of dishes from simple seafood to spicy fare. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2009