($15, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): All Burgundy is highly dependent on producer, but none more than those labeled Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy’s lowliest appellation seen on these shores. Since Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s top producers, don’t miss this one. This value-packed 2006 La Foret, their basic red Burgundy, delivers simple, straightforward red and black fruit flavors intertwined with just a hint of earthy, leafy notes. Mild tannins lend support but allow immediate enjoyment. Not a California blockbuster, it’s a wine that shows the elegance and grace of Pinot Noir from Burgundy–at a very attractive price. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2009