($27, Maison Marques and Domaines): While many California wineries are releasing their 2006 and 2007 Merlot, this 2005 is Meerlust’s current offering.  As a family owned winery, Meerlust can avoid the bean counters’ focus on quarterly returns and hold the wine until they think its ready for release.  Hannes Myburgh, the current head of Meerlust, says his father started the practice in the 1970s because he wanted a wine to be more integrated and enjoyable to drink upon release.  Judging by this wine, it was a sound decision.  This Merlot is not a massive wine or a fruit bomb.  Rather, alluring herbal nuances complement the black fruit flavors.  Earthy, savory notes speak loudly.  Fine tannins give it a backbone and requisite acidity keeps it lively.  The bottle age has allowed it to come together beautifully.  Its complexity is best appreciated at the dinner table, not as an aperitif type of Merlot.  Another fine value from South Africa. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2009