($63, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Maume, a family run property, owns about 10 acres of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. When young, Maume wines, like this one, emphasize power rather than finesse. In this case, there’s enormous concentration, more than you’d expect for a village wine, but at this stage the oak flavor and tannin is a little too prominent, which means it’s a good candidate for the cellar. Undoubtedly, it will settle down and come together over the next several years. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2008