($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is.  And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering.   Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal.  But its fleshier middle and long finish make it stand apart from the masses. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2008