($22): Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain’s Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region.  Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra–analogous to a French Vin de Pays–can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor.  Not overdone, this mid-weight wine is nicely balanced.  The Cabernet, which often can dominate a blend, does not, but rather adds structure.  The Merlot lends a little plumpness, but it’s the Tempranillo that delivers a captivating mixture of red and black fruits, herbs and spice.  Fine tannins make it an excellent choice for current consumption. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2008