($10): Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s star producers, acts as a négociant–they buy young wine from others and then blend and age it–for this bargain-priced delight.  Aromatic from Viognier, it conveys fresh fruit, a hint of bacon fat and gamey flavors–Syrah and Mourvédre speaking–that give it remarkable complexity for the price. 86 Michael Apstein Aug 26, 2008