($27, Vineyard Brands): Elgin is one of the cooler areas in South Africa and consequently this Chardonnay is less ripe, more tightly wound and restrained compared to Ellis’s Stellenbosch bottling.  There are more lemon rather than melon notes here.  His two Chardonnays tasted side-by-side are an instructive comparison and show that the French don’t have a monopoly on terroir. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008