($24, Vineyard Brands): In really great years, such as 2005, the wines from the lowliest appellations, such as this Bourgogne Rouge, are particularly attractive. Girardin has managed to craft a wine with New World intensity while retaining the earthy character of Burgundy. Bottled with a screwcap, it is a wonderful introduction to red Burgundy and a great bargain. California Pinot Noir producers, take note. 87 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2007