($45, Old Bridge Cellars): I tasted this at a seminar on Australian and New Zealand wines that I led for a group of undergraduate students at Harvard after my return from Western Australia. It was the wine of the night and a perfect accompaniment to roasted lamb. An extra year of maturity beyond the 2001–and perhaps the voyage to the US–mellowed it slightly without sapping any of its power or complexity. 95 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006