Category Archives: Wine Review Online

Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020

($45):  Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014.  To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires.  But 2020 Willamette whites suffered little or not at all and should not be shunned because the white wine is made with little skin contact, so the smoke taint is not a problem.  Nicolas-Jay’s 2020 Affinités is ripe and lush without being in your face or heavy.  Indeed, it’s a restrained style of Chardonnay.  A touch of spice and vibrant acidity keeps you coming back for more.  A great value, given the prices of top New World Chardonnays.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2023

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019

($28):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust.  Put this one in the latter category.  Earthy notes support dark fruit character.  Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness.  It opens beautifully as it sits in the glass over a half hour so don’t rush it.  A good choice for hearty fare this winter.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2023

Nicolas-Jay, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay “Affinités” 2020

($45):  Jean-Nicolas Méo of burgundy’s Domaine Méo-Camuzet, joined forces with Jay Boberg to establish a Willamette Valley winery in 2014.  To limit capital outlay, they initially bought grapes, and still do, for some of their wines, like this one.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several sites throughout the Willamette, is a smashing success for the 2020 vintage, a vintage for the reds that was mostly destroyed by smoke taint from the devastating wildfires.  But 2020 Willamette whites suffered little or not at all and should not be shunned because the white wine is made with little skin contact, so the smoke taint is not a problem.  Nicolas-Jay’s 2020 Affinités is ripe and lush without being in your face or heavy.  Indeed, it’s a restrained style of Chardonnay.  A touch of spice and vibrant acidity keeps you coming back for more.  A great value, given the prices of top New World Chardonnays.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2023

Tenuta di Capezzana, Rosso di Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ghiaie della Furba” 2015

($60, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Ghiaie della Furba, a Super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah from Capezzana, Carmignano’s top producer, is a robust wine when young.  Even at eight years of age, this tightly wound beauty reveals its glories slowly as it sits in the glass.  Its suave and glossy tannins enrobe its mineral qualities.  An intriguing meatiness — that’s the Syrah speaking — emerges.  Its balance and my experience with Ghiaie della Furba suggest this 2015 has a beautiful future.  That said, those who enjoy wines at a more youthful stage of their evolution can enjoy it now if you decant it and don’t rush it.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2023

Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016

($31, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Carmignano, Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is unique because it requires the use of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese. Capezzana makes the benchmark Carmignano.  Their 2016, from a spectacular vintage and still widely available retail, is a great introduction to the DOCG.  It delivers black cherry-like fruitiness and earthy firmness, focusing on its earthy, not fruity side.  Lovely now after a few years of age, I have no doubt it will continue to evolve, if you can keep your hands off it.  It’s a great buy!
92 Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2023

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019

($28):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust.  Put this one in the latter category.  Earthy notes support dark fruit character.  Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness.  It opens beautifully as it sits in the glass over a half hour so don’t rush it.  A good choice for hearty fare this winter.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2023

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020

($375):  Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers.  They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009.  Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.”  The ripe 2020 vintage is especially well-suited to an otherwise austere site, like Corton-Perrières because the warmth of the vintage adds a luxurious fleshiness to the bones of this wine.  It leads with an explosive mineral and dark fruit-infused aromatics that follow on the palate.  Fleshy and firm, it has unusual energy and vivacity given the warmth of the vintage.  This long and graceful Corton will reward decades of cellaring, but it is quite captivating right now.
96 Michael Apstein Mar 7, 2023

La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva DOC (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2016

($42):  La Rioja Alta is one of Rioja’s top producers.  Their Viña Ardanza, an exquisite blend of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, brings both red fruit and savory nuances together.  Subtle mature hints add complexity and intrigue.  Suavely textured, the emphasis is on elegance and stature, not power.  A delicate hint of bitterness in the finish reminds us that this is not a fruit-laden powerhouse.  Indeed, it does not overwhelm initially, but wham, it sneaks up on you.  It’s a joy to drink.
95 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2023

Herdade de Sao Miguel, Alentejano (Portugal) “Colheita Seleccionada” 2020

($15, Quintessential Wines):  With wines like this one Portugal is poised to supply the world with satisfying wines at good prices.  A blend of four red grapes, Alicante Bouschet (50%) Touriga Nacional (30%) Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, known for making power packed wines, it is — unsurprisingly — a bold wine.  But it’s not overdone.  Robust with lots of dark fruit, yes, but it is remarkably well-balanced and bright. An excellent winter-time wine.  The producer is Casa Relvas, but that’s relegated to small type on back label so everyone will know it by Herdade de Sao Miguel.
91 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2023

Vigna 800, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “La Cesolina” 2020

($35):  Light and fresh, Le Cesolina is just what you want with Valpolicella.  Don’t misinterpret the light and fresh moniker to mean vapid.  Not at all.  Though this juicy red wine weighs in at a mere 12.5 percent stated alcohol, it delivers plenty of enjoyment with juicy red cherry-like flavors.  Mild tannins mean it’s a great candidate for chilling and drinking during the summer.  Think of it as a Rosé with flavor.
90 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2023

Caldora, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Italy) 2020

($15, Gonzalez Byass USA):  When you run across a wine at this price that’s this enjoyable, it makes you smile.  This bright and juicy mid-weight wine has an engaging mix of red fruits accented by a hint of spice.  Mild tannins allow immediate enjoyment. In a word or two, it has a charming rusticity.  It’s perfect for pizza or a take-out rotisserie chicken.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2023

Viña Don Melchor, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

($151):  Before Seña, Almaviva, Clos Apalta, or Viñedo Chadwick appeared on the scene, there was Don Melchor, standing head and shoulders above every other Chilean wine.  Formerly, Don Melchor was the flagship of the Concha y Toro winery.  Since 2019, it has become its own entity and winery within Concha y Toro, hence the subtle change in producer to Viña Don Melchor.  Make no mistake: It is still Concha y Toro’s flagship and one of Chile’s — and the world’s — best Cabernet-based wines.  Enrique Tirado, Don Melchor’s winemaker, explains that the wine is an expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, which explains why that grape always comprises at least 90 percent of the blend.  The 2020 Don Melchor leads with a subtle hint of mint and other aromatic herbal nuances.  It’s refreshingly restrained, not a fruit bomb, with suave tannins that magically provide plenty of structure.  As it sits in the glass, plum-like fruitiness intermingles with spice and savory notes.  It impresses with elegance and persistence, not power.
96 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2023

Waypoint Wine Company, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard 2020

($60):  The character of the wine announces itself with an unnecessarily heavy bottle and a wax-covered cork, which makes opening it difficult.  A glossy, intense, cream-laden Chardonnay flows from this impressive packaging.  Bright acidity amplifies its seductive texture.  This well-made wine won’t be for everyone, but those who embrace lush ripe Chardonnay with oomph with love its buttery richness.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2023

Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Fincas de la Villa” 2017

($22, Quintessential Wines):  Bodegas Muriel makes a range of wines, all of which are easy to recommend.  Frankly, I would buy all three of the current releases reviewed this week, then invite some people over, and give everyone a quick lesson in Rioja.  A Reserva requires three years of aging prior to release, which results, in this case, in a more serious wine.  Darker and more brooding than Muriel’s Crianza, this Reserva has attractive bitterness in its bright uplifting finish.  Polished tannins are appropriate and not overwhelming.  Here is another bargain to drink now, with a heftier meal.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2023

Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) “Viñas Viejas” 2014

($30, Quintessential Wines):  Rounding out this trio of Muriel wines is their stunning old vine Reserva.  It is just better, more complex and layered compared to their “regular” Reserva with an even finer texture.  It’s the kind of wine that makes you pause after the first sip.  With power and elegance, it is truly an iron fist in a velvet glove.  All of its complexity and weight comes with only 13.5 percent stated alcohol, which just goes to show you don’t need over-ripe grapes to make a terrific wine.  At the price, it’s a steal.
95 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2023

Bodegas Muriel, Rioja Crianza (Spain) “Fincas de la Villa” 2019

($16, Quintessential Wines):  The wines of Rioja have been labeled traditionally by the amount of aging they receive prior to release.  By law, a Crianza must receive at least one year of barrel age followed by a year of bottle age before release.  In practice, a Crianza of has enough substance that two years of aging benefits it.  This lively one delivers a darker fruit profile with subtle and alluring smoky elements.  Suave tannins lend support without intruding.  It conveys more complexity and minerality than you would expect at the price.  Don’t miss it.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2023

Burgundy Buying Blueprint for the 99-Percenters

Even a brief glance at on-line ads from wine retailers shows that Côte d’Or Burgundy has become prohibitively expensive for everyone except the so called “one-percenters” at the very peak of the wealth pyramid.  And I’ve seen even some of them balk at the prices.  What’s a Burgundy fan to do while waiting for one’s lottery number to be chosen?

One option is to look to other areas, such as Oregon or New Zealand, that can produce stunning wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  But that’s not an option for committed Burgundy lovers, because to them, it’s not about Chardonnay or Pinot Noir.  To quote, Jacques Lardière, the venerable longtime winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, “If you taste Chardonnay in my wine, I’ve made a mistake.”  Burgundy is about the site—the Burgundians maintain that the grape is merely a vehicle for transporting the flavor of the place to the glass.  So, yes, there are wonderful Chardonnays from New Zealand—look no further than Kumeu River’s line-up—and elegant Pinot Noirs from Oregon—Martin Wood’s Jesse Jackson Vineyard Pinot Noir springs to mind.  But they’re not, nor do they pretend to nor aim to be, Burgundy.

Complicating the matter for U.S. consumers is the fragmented distribution of Burgundy.  Aside from the major négociants, most producers are small and lack national distribution, so wines that might appear on the shelves in New York, might not be in Kansas City or Los Angeles.  And even wines that wind up in major markets, such as New York, may only be available in one or two shops.  So, I will recommend a general approach to finding affordable Burgundy as well as recommending specific wines.

Speaking of major négociants, do not overlook their basic Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Rouge.  I’ve enjoyed many vintages of both colors of Latour’s “Cuvée Latour” and Drouhin’s “Laforêt” bottling.  (Look for more producers to jettison the word Burgundy from the label, replacing it with Bourgogne, the traditional name for the region.  Indeed, burgundy in French means…Mon Dieu…Bordeaux.)

There’s plenty of excellent and exciting wine outside of the famed “Golden Slope.” And even within that hallowed ground, some villages, such as Marsannay, and Auxey-Duresses still offer value from producers like Domaine Bart (Marsannay) and Domaine Lafouge (Auxey-Duresses).  Also, within the Côte d’Or, there is a new regional appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from that strip of land and opposed to other parts of Burgundy.  So, keep your eye out for wines labeled as such from top producers, such as Pernot-Belicard, Benjamin Leroux, and Michel Bouzereau.

Look North and South

Between Paris and the Côte d’Or lies Chablis, where value abounds.  Though the prices of Chablis 1er and Grand Cru are rising, they remain well below their counterparts in the Côte d’Or.  My advice, though, is to look for village Chablis, especially from the 2020 and 2021 vintages, from top producers.  My list of is long, which is good because most of these wines will not be in all markets: Barat, Billaud-Simon, Romain Bouchard, Jean-Marc Brocard, Jean Collet, Courtault-Michelet, Dampt Frères, Drouhin, Droin, Bichot’s Domaine Long-Depaquit, Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Louis Moreau, Oudin, Pinson, Pommier, Servin, Simonnet-Febvre, Eleni et Edouard Vocoret.  These are not voluptuous Chardonnay-based wines, so if that’s your preference, look elsewhere.  The edgy minerality imparted by the Kimmerigdian limestone-based soil makes them a traditional choice with seafood, but the same zesty character means they can cut through and hold up to spiced dishes as well.

Around Chablis there are a bunch of relatively obscure village and regional appellations now making excellent wines thanks to a bevy of talented young producers and, yes, climate change.  Wines from these areas were lean and often astringent in the past because of poor ripening this far north.  Climate change has made an enormous—and positive—difference here.  Look to Irancy and Epineuil for reds, Bourgogne Tonerre for whites, and Bourgogne Chitry and Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, for both colors.  The whites, especially Bourgogne Tonerre, resemble Chablis with a cutting edginess, whereas the white Chitry and white Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre convey noticeable spice.  The reds from these areas tend to be lighter but not vapid.  The best have an intriguing interplay of fruit and savory earthiness.  Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot is a star with their Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, as well as their Saint Bris, another obscure Burgundy appellation that mandates Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay.  You can buy Goisot’s wines blind.  They offer tremendous value.  Many of the above-named Chablis producers bottle wines from these lesser-known areas.  Additional names to remember are Stephanie Colinot, Christopher Ferrari’s Domaine St. Germain, Clothilde Davenne, and Domaine Richoux.  Trust me, these appellations will not remain obscure for much longer.

South of the Côte d’Or is the red hot Mâconnais, which has attracted super-star producers like Dominque Lafon, whose stellar Côte d’Or Burgundies routinely sell out quickly despite triple digit price tags, and Domaine Leflaive, whose simple 2021 Bourgogne Blanc goes for $140 a bottle.  Growers are discovering and taking advantage of the different terroirs in the Mâconnais.  More and more are bottling under a specific village name, such as Azé, Mâcon-Vergisson, or Mâcon-Lugny, rather than a blend from several villages and labeled as Macon-Villages.  Look for wines from the Bret Brothers, such as their 2021 Mâcon-Chardonnay “Les Crays.” Located in the village of Vinzelles, as in Pouilly-Vinzelles, the Bret Brothers is the négociant arm of Domaine Soufrandière, their family estate.  Their estate wines have increased in price—and are still worth it—but the Bret Brothers label remains affordable and excellent value.  Yes, Virginia, there is a village named Chardonnay in the Mâconnais.  The grapes are from a single plot, “Les Crays” within the village.  This balanced and fresh Mâcon-Chardonnay displays subtle fruity elements balanced by bracing acidity in the finish that amplifies its considerable charms.  Not overdone, you’d never mistake it for a California Chardonnay.  (92 pts; $25).  The Bret Brothers are another producer whose wines you can buy with your eyes closed, so if you can’t find this Mâcon-Chardonnay, just remember their name.

To see the magic in the Mâconnais, find wines from different Mâcon villages made by the same producer to see for yourself how terroir exists here in the Mâconnais just as it does in the Côte d’Or—at a fraction of the price.  I suggest two from a top young producer, Domaine de la Garenne, but any producers’ pairs will make the point.  The difference between the chunky minerality of Domaine de la Garenne’s 2020 Mâcon Solutré Pouilly ($15, 90 pts) and the sleeker stoniness of its brother from Mâcon Azé ($16, 90 points) is illuminating.  Both these wines are fabulous values.

A Few to Try:

Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre “Le Court Vit.” 2019:  Goisot considers the Le Court Vit their best white wine.  The 2019 is stunning, floral, and exuberant in a paradoxically restrained way.  Fresh and spiced, it would be perfect with grilled swordfish or seafood with more assertive flavors.  If you find a more enjoyable $22 wine, please let me know.  ($22, 93)

Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Tonnerre, “Chevalier d’Éon,” 2020:  Tight and youthful initially, this beauty opens in the glass within 30 minutes to reveal a winning combination of floral and mineral notes.  Edginess in the finish amplifies its charms.  If you tasted it blind, you’d be hard-pressed to distinguish it from a village Chablis.  ($20, 92)

Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Epineuil, “Elegance,” 2019:  Dampt Frères, best known for their cutting Chablis, does very well with the surrounding, lesser-known appellations, such as Epineuil.  Indeed, they make at least three cuvées from that village.  Elegance was my favorite of a trio of their 2019s, but I’d been happy with either of the other two, their straight village bottling, or “Les Beaumonts.”  The finesse-filled Elegance delivers more black, rather than red, fruit robed in suave tannins and finished with a subtle and attractive hint of bitterness.  It’s another fine choice for current consumption ($25, 92).

Christine, Elodie & Patrick Chalmeau, Bourgogne Chitry, 2019: This refined red shows the potential of Pinot Noir in Chitry.  Generous yet refined, this classy Chitry expresses the near magical interplay of minerals, fruitiness, and savory subtleties of Bourgogne Rouge at a price we normals can afford.  Enjoy now.  ($20, 91).

Château de Chamirey, Mercurey, 2020:  Between the Mâconnais and the Côte d’Or sits the Côtes Chalonnaise and the appellations of Givry (not to be confused with Gevrey, as in Chambertin), Mercurey, and Rully, all of which make both colors, and Montagny, which makes only whites.  Château de Chamirey, a top-notch producer, makes an array of marvelous Mercurey, starting with this village wine.  A blend of six plots from throughout the village, this stylish wine highlights subtle dark cherries in the foreground supported and balanced by a firm stone-y background.  Juicy and harmonious, it’s a delight to drink now.  ($40, 93).

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E-mail me your thoughts about Bourgogne at Michael.Apstein1@gmail.com and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein

February 1, 2023

Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

($60):  Jordan deserves high praise for never wavering from their course of making full-flavored yet elegant Cabernet Sauvignon.  Rob Davis, Jordan’s first and longtime, 1976 to 2019, winemaker, told me he wanted “wines with balance” with low alcohol, not “tannic monsters.”  The 2018 fits their style — elegance and freshness.  Thankfully, not a powerhouse — weighing in at less than 14 percent stated alcohol — it impresses with length and grace.  There’s plenty of flavor here, both fruity and savory, but without a trace of heaviness.  Uplifting acidity amplifies its charms.  As usual, fine tannins allow immediate enjoyment.  But don’t be deceived by its approachability.  At a vertical tasting in 2012, the Jordan 1976 Cabernet had developed splendidly.  So, if your bank account allows, put some in your cellar.
94 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2023

Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019

($19, SM USA):  In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine.  Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone.  In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now.  It gives you an insight into the potential grandeur of Amarone.  Currently, Masi uses the appassimento method, the same as for Amarone just less of it, which combines wine fermented regularly with wine fermented from dried grapes.  The result is a bolder, yet balanced Valpolicella with an alluring combination of fresh and dried fruit notes.  Darker fruit — think plums rather than cherries — adds heft without a trace of heaviness.  Suave, fine tannins mean it’s ideal for drinking this robust wine this winter.  It delivers a beguiling not-just-fruit character in the finish.  Another bargain from Masi!
93 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2023

Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017

($61, SM USA):  Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol — bold, wintertime wine.  Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power.  There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity.  For all its size, its texture is remarkably refined and suave.  It’s a hefty wine with suave tannins, what some would call a Texas steakhouse wine.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 24, 2023

Hamel Family Wines, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Isthmus” 2018

($90):  This is a stylish and refined Bordeaux blend of roughly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot filling out the rest.  Leading with great aromatics, the emphasis is on elegance rather than power, though there’s plenty of that as well.  Fine tannins lend support and structure without astringency.  This graceful wine would be a good match for a rib roast or other hearty beef dish.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2023

Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon McNab Ranch Vineyard “The McNab” 2020

($60):  Whenever the name of a wine starts with “The,” you know the producer wants to make a statement.  An overweight bottle adds to that message.  Made with biodynamically grown grapes, this is a big, bold style of Cabernet.  Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overdone, just intense with a commanding presence.  An intriguing hint of tarry bitterness in the finish emphasizes that this is a serious wine, not just a powerhouse of ripe fruit.  Moderate, but finely honed, tannins add necessary structure and balance without intruding.  Taken together, this powerhouse calls for a steak or leg of lamb this winter.  As an aside, it’s hard to ignore the paradox of environmentally friendly viticulture and the unnecessarily heavy bottle.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2023

Charles Krug, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021

($17):  This middle-of-the-road style of Sauvignon Blanc strikes the right balance.  A mid-weight wine, it has enough bite and varietal character so you know what you’re drinking, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels as many Sauvignon Blancs might.  A pleasing roundness makes it a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif wine, but it has enough acidity to keep it interesting throughout a meal.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2022

($33, Moet Hennessy):  Over 35 years ago, in 1985, Cloudy Bay put New Zealand wine on the world’s stage with their riveting Sauvignon Blanc.  They, more than anyone, were responsible for the meteoric growth and popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  Year in and year out, they continue to produce a stellar example of that wine.  Their 2022 Sauvignon Blanc fits their mold with depth and concentration offset by citrus energy.  Great length and an uplifting finish magnify its charms.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2021

($22, Vintus Wines):  Dog Point’s Sauvignon Blanc has been a favorite of mine since Fred Ek, owner of Ex-Cellars, their importer at the time, introduced me to it a couple of decades ago.  Dog Point, still family owned, made a delightful one in 2021. Good weight and depth balance its zingy and minerally edginess.  Its pleasantly piercing bite awakens the palate without being aggressive.  A long citrus finish enhances and reinforces its vibrancy.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2020

($45, Misa Imports, Craig Baker Selection):  Montagny, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of Burgundy’s famed — and expensive — Côte d’Or has always been an insider’s place to find affordable white Burgundy.  With ever increasing prices in Burgundy, it has become and even more popular place for those wines.  Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, a top producer in Givry, another under-the radar village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is best known for their stunning wines from that village, but has spread its imprint to other villages.  With this wine, certainly one of the best Montagny bottlings I’ve ever tasted, they catapult themselves to the upper echelon of Montagny producers as well.  It delivers an impeccably balanced combination of succulent fruitiness atop a stone-y base that screams Côte Chalonnaise.  It has good weight and concentration without being heavy or overbearing.  Its mouthwatering minerality makes this wine sing.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “Les Margotons” 2020

($38, Misa Imports, Craig Baker Selection):  Domaine du Cellier aux Moines produced a stunning array of 2020 whites.  With this one, they achieved a perfect combination of creamy character associated with Côte de Beaune whites and the stone-y mineral character of Mercurey whites.  Like their Montagny, this is one of the best white wines from Mercurey I’ve had.  Don’t miss it.
94 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir Reserva 2020

($14, Gonzalez Byass USA):  Also made with organically grown grapes, the Veramonte Reserva Pinot Noir is darker and more structured than Alto de Casablanca’s Ritual bottling.  It also delivers more savory notes.  Taken together, this youthful Pinot Noir calls both for more robust fare and either a year or two in the cellar or an hour in the glass.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

Alta Vista, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec Single Vineyard, Albaneve 2018

($51, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Like the unnecessarily heavy bottle, this stunning single-vineyard Malbec is a weighty bold wine but with remarkable balance for its size.  This robust wine carries its 15 percent stated alcohol well.  Suavely textured, it still has enough structure to counter the deep plum-like fruit and slightly alluring tarry elements.  Unlike many Malbec, despite its size, it is not one-dimensional.  It’s remarkably fresh and uplifting, especially for such a robust wine.  The wine speaks for itself.  They can ditch the bottle.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2023

Maison Louis Latour Made Outstanding 2020s

The 2020 vintage in Burgundy, currently on the market, is the third hot—temperature wise—vintage in a row.  It’s also a “hot” vintage judging from some critics’ reviews and retailers’ enthusiasm.  Hot vintages are tricky, especially in Burgundy.  The good news about growing seasons with hot, sun-drenched days is that the wines have ripe flavors and lack green, unripe ones and the accompanying palate-searing acidity.   This is especially true for areas like Burgundy that traditionally—that is, before climate change—had a tough time ripening grapes.  The downside of all this heat is that grapes can get a bit too ripe, which translates into wines with inadequate freshness from low acidity and wind up tasting heavy or jammy.  Pinot Noir is especially sensitive to too much warmth because it loses its glorious perfume and subtlety in those conditions.  Classic Burgundy, in my mind, has what I call “flavor without weight.”  Too much heat during the growing season can obliterate their charms and make them weighty.  Yes, you want ripeness it Burgundy, but then again, not too much.  Excessive ripeness in Burgundy also blurs the differences among the appellations.  The wines lose their focus as ripe flavors overwhelm the subtle differences that distinguish the terroirs one from another.

Vintages in which quality is so high you can practically choose with your eyes closed are rare in Burgundy.  The 2010 and 2015 vintages for red Burgundies are excellent candidates for that kind of vintage.  In my opinion, the 2020 vintage is not—precisely because of the heat.

All of which brings me to the striking success of Maison Latour’s 2020 Burgundies—both red and white.  Latour’s style has always been to capture flavor and charm without going overboard.  Their viticultural and winemaking practices favor maintaining vibrant acidity, which means that the 2020 vintage was perfect for their style of wines.  Overall, Latour’s 2020s are fleshy and fresh with a clear definition of one appellation from another.  They are structured, but not hard or astringent.  Many are remarkably enjoyable now.  I suspect they will remain that way for a year or so, close down for five or so years, and then start to re-emerge.  Their balance suggests they have a long and complex life ahead of them.

Although Maison Latour is one of Burgundy’s venerable négociants—now under the leadership of the 12th generation of the Latour family—it is also an important grower, owning over 125 acres of vineyards, over half of which are Grand Cru.   Those wines carry a circular label on the neck proclaiming Domaine Louis Latour.  Christophe Diola is responsible for the Domaine wines, while Jean-Charles Thomas oversees the négociant wines.

Under the brilliant leadership of the late Louis-Fabrice Latour, who died in September at the age of 58, Latour shrewdly purchased Domaine Simonnet-Febvre in Chablis in 2003.  Paul Espitalié does a fine job overseeing those wines.

Here are just a few examples of their success with the 2020s.

The Reds:

Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru Les Perrières, 2020:  The 7.5-acre Les Perrières vineyard lies high up on the slope in a cooler locale, which may help explain this wine’s bright energy.  Though tightly wound, as expected from a young top premier cru, its stature shows with gorgeous mineral-scented aromatics and impressive length.  Engaging red fruit flavors intermingled with clear stony notes—the site was an ancient quarry—are clearly heard.  Pure and precise, it’s a winner.  (95 points; $125 for the 2019)

Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Chaillots, 2020:  Wines from Aloxe-Corton, even its premier crus, are overshadowed by Grand Cru Corton and overlooked by consumers.  Do.  Not.  Overlook.  This.  Wine.  Its fleshy body atop a firm frame of iron-tinged flavors identify it clearly as Aloxe-Corton.  Impeccably balanced and fresh, it is well-proportioned, not over extracted or overdone.  It’s a mini-Corton that has the advantage that it will be approachable far sooner than its grand cru big brother.  (95, $116)

Maison Louis Latour, Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots, 2020:  More structured, befitting its appellation, this iron tinged Pommard Epenots is sturdy and broad, redolent of dark fruits and minerals.  Though the tannins certainly speak, they are not aggressive.  (92,  $101)

Maison Louis Latour, Volnay 1er Cru En Chevret, 2020:  En Chevret, a highly regarded 1er Cru vineyard, sits adjacent to and just below Volnay Caillerets, a vineyard many consider to be Volnay’s best.  Latour’s suavely textured 2020 En Chevret exemplifies the charm and seductive nature of wines from Volnay.  Floral, fresh, long, it’s captivating.  In a word, wow.  (94, $135 for the 2019)

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grancey, 2020:  Corton Grancey, a Grand Cru and the flagship of Domaine Latour, is a blend of five of the Grand Cru lieux-dits of the hill of Corton: Bressandes, Perrières, Grèves, Clos de Roi, Chaumes.  The proportion of each varies year to year, depending on the vintage.  The name, Grancey, comes from the last owners of the château before the Latour family purchased it in 1891.  Château Grancey, a classic multi-storied Burgundian building complete with circular staircases situated in the middle of the Corton vineyards, is the working winery where Christophe Diola makes the domaine wines.  The explosive 2020 is simply sensational, one of best young Grancey releases I’ve tasted.  Both powerful and refined, the wine is succulent, long, and fresh.  The tannins characteristic of red Corton are there, but hardly noticeable because of its suave texture.  Impeccable balance suggests this Grancey will develop beautifully.   Either drink in now or in a decade or two.  (97, $188)

Whites:

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis “D1840,” 2020:  Simonnet-Febvre is both a négociant and a grower, owning Chablis village plots, pieces Premier Cru, Mont de Milieu, and in Grand Cru, Preuses.  The D1840 bottles comes from their vineyards that have a village appellation.  Fresh and stone-y, it’s a fantastic village wine, providing more excitement than many growers’ 1er cru.  A citrus buzz in the finish just amplifies its appeal.  Don’t miss it.  (92, $30).

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis 1er cru Mont de Milieu, 2020:  More elegant, befitting a 1er cru, the floral and mineral-y Mont de Milieu dances on the palate.  This lovely, lacey wine is a delight to drink now with simply grilled fish.  (93, $46 for the 2019)

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru Preuses, 2020:  Unsurprisingly for a young Grand Cru, Simonnet-Febvre’s Preuses takes time to reveal itself in the glass.  But when it does, look out.  It explodes with a barrage of flint and stones all supported by riveting acidity.  A long and luxurious finish confirms this is a great youthful Grand Cru Chablis.  Give it a decade.  (95, $96)

Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru En Caradeux, 2020:  The very top portion of the En Caradeux vineyard carries the village, not 1er Cru appellation.  But just below the demarcation, that is the upper part of the 1er Cru portion, marl-filled soil makes it a good site for Chardonnay.  The whole vineyard sits across the valley from the hill of Corton and some say that the white En Caradeux is like a mini-Corton Charlemagne.  Latour’s plush and ripe 2020 finishes with a welcome tinge of bitterness and good vibrancy.  (92, $58 for the 2019)

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, 2020:  Anyone who denigrates négociant bottlings needs to try this extraordinary wine.  A gorgeously transparent wine, its spiciness speaks of Genevrières, which vies with Perrières as the village’s top site, while its richness speaks of Meursault.  Its refinement, length, and energy speak of the Latour style.  (95, $96)

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne, 2020:  Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, sets the benchmark for that Grand Cru year in and year out.  Explosive and forward, Latour’s ravishing 2020 is less tightly wound compared to many of their young Corton-Charlemagne, which means you can drink it now with enormous pleasure.  My preference would be to cellar it for a decade or two to appreciate the phenomenal complexity their Corton-Charlemagne develops.  With all its ripeness, it is not heavy or over-the-top.  Great spice and acidity in the finish give it energy and length.  A hint of balancing bitterness suggests that this will turn out very well.  (96, $244).

In short, with their 2020s, Latour achieved an impeccable balance of ripeness and liveliness.  I could buy Latour’s 2020 with closed eyes.  Some of these will certainly wind up in my cellar.

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E-mail me your thoughts about Burgundy in general or Maison Louis Latour in particular at Michael.Apstein1@gmail.com and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein
December 21, 2022

Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

($60):  Jordan deserves high praise for never wavering from their course of making full-flavored yet elegant Cabernet Sauvignon.  Rob Davis, Jordan’s first and longtime, 1976 to 2019, winemaker, told me he wanted “wines with balance” with low alcohol, not “tannic monsters.”  The 2018 fits their style — elegance and freshness.  Thankfully, not a powerhouse — weighing in at less than 14 percent stated alcohol — it impresses with length and grace.  There’s plenty of flavor here, both fruity and savory, but without a trace of heaviness.  Uplifting acidity amplifies its charms.  As usual, fine tannins allow immediate enjoyment.  But don’t be deceived by its approachability.  At a vertical tasting in 2012, the Jordan 1976 Cabernet had developed splendidly.  So, if your bank account allows, put some in your cellar.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2022

Masi, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Bonacosta” 2020

($17, SM USA):  Masi, one of the leading Valpolicella/Amarone producers, makes a wonderful range of wines.  Made from the usual Valpolicella grapes, Corvina, Rolindella, and Molinara, Masi’s mid-weight Bonacosta, their “regular” (though there’s nothing regular about it) Valpolicella Classico delivers juicy bright cherry flavors.  Fresh and fleshy, its smooth texture makes it perfect for current consumption.  It’s a great choice with a tomato-based pasta or grilled meat.  And it’s a bargain for what it delivers.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2022

Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019

($19, SM USA):  In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine.  Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone.  In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now.  It gives you an insight into the potential grandeur of Amarone.  Currently, Masi uses the appassimento method, the same as for Amarone just less of it, which combines wine fermented regularly with wine fermented from dried grapes.  The result is a bolder, yet balanced Valpolicella with an alluring combination of fresh and dried fruit notes.  Darker fruit — think plums rather than cherries — adds heft without a trace of heaviness.  Suave, fine tannins mean it’s ideal for drinking this robust wine this winter.  It delivers a beguiling not-just-fruit character in the finish.  Another bargain from Masi!
93 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2022

Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017

($61, SM USA):  Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol—bold, wintertime wine.  Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power.  There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity.  For all its size, its texture is remarkably refined and suave.  It’s a hefty wine with suave tannins, what some would call a Texas steakhouse wine.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2022

Batasiolo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Riserva 2012

($82, Palm Bay International):  In addition to making very fine single vineyard Baroli, Batasiolo makes this Riserva from grapes grown throughout the delimited Barolo region.  Indeed, some of the grapes that could have gone into their single vineyard bottlings are used in the Riserva to maintain consistency and quality.  This is a positively gorgeous Barolo that is just entering its period of drinkability, which is not surprising since most of the grapes came from vineyards within Serralunga, Batasolio home base.  Barolo from Serralunga, in contrast to those from La Morra or Barolo itself, are more structured and take longer to come around.  Still showing ripe fresh fruit flavors, mineral notes and tarry ones appear and complement the wines fruitiness.  The tannins are suave yet provide a firm structure.  It would be an excellent choice with hearty fare this fall and winter.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2022

Duca di Salaparuta, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nerello Mascalese “Lavico” 2018

($17, Disaronno International):  Consumers unfamiliar with Nerello Mascalese, the signature grape of Sicily’s Mount Etna, should grab this bottle.  Lava-like mineral notes complement the sour cherry like ones in this mid-weight red.  A long an explosive finish reminds you this is a wine to sip and savor.  It displays a Burgundian sensibility.  That is, it’s deceptively light in weight, yet provides a powerful presence. Its refined and sleek structure allows you to enjoy it now.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2022

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2021

($12, Palm Bay International):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements.  Take this one, for example.  Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes.  Time in the glass reveals an alluring smokey earthy quality.  This mid-weight wine has fine tannins that provide structure, but don’t intrude on current enjoyment.  Its freshness and vivacity remind you that Sicily is not necessarily too hot for fine wine.  This bargain-priced red is perfect for wintertime fare.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2022

Duca di Salaparuta, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nerello Mascalese “Lavico” 2018

($17, Disaronno International):  Consumers unfamiliar with Nerello Mascalese, the signature grape of Sicily’s Mount Etna, should grab this bottle.  Lava-like mineral notes complement the sour cherry like ones in this mid-weight red.  A long an explosive finish reminds you this is a wine to sip and savor.  It displays a Burgundian sensibility.  That is, it’s deceptively light in weight, yet provides a powerful presence. Its refined and sleek structure allows you to enjoy it now.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2022

Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2021

($12, Palm Bay International):  Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements.  Take this one, for example.  Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes.  Time in the glass reveals an alluring smokey earthy quality.  This mid-weight wine has fine tannins that provide structure, but don’t intrude on current enjoyment.  Its freshness and vivacity remind you that Sicily is not necessarily too hot for fine wine.  This bargain-priced red is perfect for wintertime fare.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2022

Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2020

($100, Louis Latour, USA):  The 7.5- acre Les Perrières vineyard lies high up on the slope in a cooler locale, which may help explain this wine’s bright energy in a hot year like 2020.  Though tightly wound, as expected from a young top premier cru, its stature shows with gorgeous mineral-scented aromatics and impressive length.  Engaging red fruit flavors intermingled with clear stony notes — the site was an ancient quarry — are clearly heard.  Pure and precise, it’s a winner.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2022

Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2020

($117, Louis Latour, USA):  Wines from Aloxe-Corton, even its premier crus, are overshadowed by grand cru Corton and overlooked by consumers.  Do. Not. Overlook. This.  Wine.  Its fleshy body atop a firm frame of iron-tinged flavors identify it clearly as Aloxe-Corton.  Impeccably balanced and fresh, it is well-proportioned, not over extracted or overdone. It’s a mini-Corton that has the advantage that it will be approachable far sooner than its grand cru big brother.  It’s charming now, so drink it in the next year or so, after which I suspect it will close down, to re-emerge in a decade as a grand wine.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 29, 2022

Beaujolais Nouveau Day: May it Rest in Peace

On the third Thursday of November the streets here in Beaune are getting ready to accommodate the crowds that will descend on this charming village to take part in the activities leading up to the annual Hospices de Beaune wine auction, which always occurs the following Sunday.  The population of this wine capital of Burgundy swells from the everyday 20,000 to nearly 75,000 as people from all over the world converge to take part in the festivities.  Adults of all ages, many with kids in tow, bundled in winter coats and scarfs, mob outdoor vendors who have set up to sell everything from sauteed frogs’ legs to foie gras to the Burgundian specialty of oeufs en murette [eggs poached in red wine].  In past years, signs pasted on bistros and wine bars all over town announced, “Beaujolais Nouveau est Arrivée” (The Beaujolais Nouveau has arrived), since the third Thursday of November is the traditional day that wine is released.  Georges Duboeuf is credited with starting the fanfare about Beaujolais Nouveau four decades ago—the wine was shipped by air all over the world so consumers everywhere could open a bottle at the same time—as a way of stimulating a moribund market for Beaujolais.  Duboeuf’s marketing worked, but later he was criticized for dumbing down and destroying the legacy of real Beaujolais, a wine that sold at a competitive price with upper end Côte d’Or Burgundies a century ago.

This year I noticed a distinct absence.  The crowds are still here.  Wine still flows everywhere.  But wait.  There are few posters for Beaujolais Nouveau and few of the local bistros are offering it.  To my mind, that’s just as well.  No doubt, Beaujolais Nouveau is a cash cow.  The 2022, like past years, was sold within two months of the harvest and best consumed within months to capture its freshness.  Producers get their money right away.  Consumers enjoy it because it’s fruity and grapey—basically alcoholic grape juice—and sells for less than $15 a bottle.  But for me, the real value and excitement of Beaujolais lies with the Beaujolais Cru wines, which are drawn from 10 villages in the north of Beaujolais that have the potential to make distinctive wine.  Moving from north to south the Crus are St.  Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnie, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly.

There are many producers who have contributed to the resurrection of Beaujolais.  John Anderson, my friend, and colleague here at WRO, recommends them on a regular basis.  (I refer you to his articles.)  Kermit Lynch, a notable U.S.  wine importer, dubbed Jean Foillard, Thevenet, Guy Breton and Marcel Lapierre as the Gang of Four because of their revolutionary approach to making high quality Beaujolais.  Already some of their wines sell for well over $60 a bottle and can be difficult to locate.  Other producers whose wines from the Beaujolais Crus that I recommend highly, are more affordable, and rest in my cellar include Château des Jacques, Marc Burgaud, Château Thivin, Clos de la Roilette, Domaine Pierre Savoye, Château de Raousset, Château du Basty, and, yes, Georges Duboeuf.

Duboeuf, in addition to flooding the market with Beaujolais Nouveau and his successful Beaujolais Flower Bottles, commercializes wine from growers in the Beaujolais Crus.  Growers make the wines.  Duboeuf bottles them and sells them at, I might add, very good prices, which is why I purchased several cases of the 2015s.  Don’t confuse them with Duboeuf’s Flower bottlings of the various Beaujolais crus, which have just the name of the Cru on the label but do not indicate a particular grower or estate.

I’ve been enjoying my 2015s over the past several years—and still have a few bottles left.  They are versatile wines which have the charm of the Gamay grape but with far more complexity and interest, certainly than either the Beaujolais Nouveau or even Duboeuf’s Flower bottlings of the Crus.  Yet, with a few exceptions, they also possess the same easy drinkability thanks to their soft tannins.  Moreover, thanks to these same soft tannins, they can be chilled, making them ideal in summer for chicken, sausage, or meat from the grill.  Wine novices and aficionados alike embrace them—a distinct advantage when you have a diverse group at the table, say at Thanksgiving or at a non-wine-focused gathering of friends—precisely because they deliver such alluring mineral-like aspects along with engaging mixed berry fruitiness without astringency.  In short, they provide something for everyone.  And they’re not expensive.

From what I’ve tasted so far, Duboeuf’s 2020 single estate Beaujolais Cru wines are very successful.  The 2020 Château de Saint-Amour, owned and produced by the Siraudin family, conveys the fresh lively charm for which St.  Amour is known.  Its smooth and seductive texture adds to its appeal.  (90 pts, $18).

Duboeuf owns Château des Capitans, a 30-acre estate located in Juliénas.  The cru takes its name from—who else? —Julius Cesar.  Aurelien Duboeuf, who is Georges’ grandson and has recently taken a role along with his father, Franck, in the winemaking, explains, “To be the owner, you understand what is happening to the vines during the vintage.”  He adds, “you can really understand the grower,” which must be important given their multiple collaborations.  Duboeuf is transforming the estate to organic viticulture, which should be certified as such in 2026.  The fresh and lively 2020 Château des Capitans has wonderful spice intermingled with crunchy red fruit flavors.  The lower stated-alcohol, 13 percent, reflects less-ripe grapes and likely explains the happy absence of potentially off-putting jammy flavors.  This is wine I would put in my cellar ($23, 92 pts).

The wines from the Côte du Py, a slope of blue granite and one of the best sites in Morgan, usually have more of a tannic firmness compared to wines from the other Crus.  (Wines from Moulin-à-Vent and Côte de Brouilly share that character as well.)  Duboeuf’s 2020 Morgon Côte du Py from Jean-Ernest Descombes sings.  Fresh and lively, it conveys an enchanting dark fruitiness anchored to a firm, but not hard, mineral component.  This is another candidate for my cellar ($35, 93 pts).

With its tarry firmness, the 2020 Duboeuf Domaine de Javernière, Morgon Côte du Py is the polar-opposite of the plush and round Château de Saint-Amour.  It’s firmer and more tannic than the Georges Descombes bottling, but like that wine, has a harmonious combination of minerals and dark fruits.  Since it is a more typically structured Côte du Py, it would benefit from a few years in the cellar.  ($23, 92).

My 2015s Beaujolais crus from Duboeuf’s collection of estates have developed nicely over the years.  I suspect their 2020s with do the same, so they’re no rush to drink them.  There is, in other words, no rush at all to drink these Beaujolais!

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E-mail me your thoughts about Beaujolais at Michael.Apstein1@gmail.com and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein.

November 23, 2022

Vini Franchetti Tenuta di Trinoro, Toscano Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Cupole” 2020

($35):  Cupole is the second wine of Tenuta di Tinoro, a “Super Tuscan” that commands a three-digit price tag — and the first digit is not a one.  Like the first wine, Cupole is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot that varies year to year to years depending on how the individual varieties fare during the growing season.  The 2020 Cupole, a bold wine, has surprisingly suave tannins and a silky texture for its size.  A lovely subtle bitterness in the finish adds to its appeal.  Many will not be deterred by a hint of heat in the finish — from its 14.5 percent stated alcohol speaking.  In truth, the alcohol reflects the ripeness and robust nature of this beautifully textured wine. It would be a good choice this winter with a hearty slab of beef.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 22, 2022

Batasiolo, Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Granée” 2021

($23, Palm Bay International):  Gavi is one of the unsung stars of Italian white wines.  This one, from Batasiolo, a top Barolo producer, is made entirely from Cortese grape grown in the village of Gavi, from which the DOCG takes its name. Fiorenzo Dogliani, whose family owns the Batasiolo estate, explains that Gavi lies only 30 miles north of Genoa and the Mediterranean Sea.  That may explain the saline-like acidity that enhances and amplifies this wine’s depth.  Its length and minerality is dazzling.  An appealing concentration balances its enormous energy.   Ready now, it’s a fine choice for anything from the sea.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 22, 2022

Brigaldara, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2020

($35, Vinifera):  Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella.  The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power.  Take this Valpolicella Superiore.  It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue.  This mid-weight wine has more power that its sleek and elegant body suggests.  Cranberry-like acidity keeps it lively and fresh.  A silky texture makes it a good choice now as temperatures drop.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2022

Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cantina di Brigaldara” 2012

($210, Vinifera):  This decade-old Amarone has developed beautifully and demonstrates the rewards of aging.  I suspect Brigaldara’s 2016 Case Vecie Amarone will develop along these lines, which is why I suggest cellaring it.  This 2012 Amarone leads with dazzling aromatics.  Then, additional complexity — mature flavors along with fresh and dried dark fruit ones — emerges.  The wine retains a brightness and elegance that is amazing.  For its considerable size, it has grace and poise.  It would be a wonderful wintertime treat this year.
96 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2022

Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2017

($75, Vinifera):  Weighing in at 16.5 percent stated alcohol, this broad-shouldered wine is remarkably elegant.  Indeed, it’s the elegance you notice, not the power, although that’s hard to ignore.  As much as I liked Brigladara’s Valpolicella Classico Casa Vecie, their Amarone just conveys more complexity — a mix of fresh and dried fruit — and power without sacrificing gracefulness.  Hints of bitterness in the finish make it even more delightful.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2022

Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Cavolo 2017

($70, Vinifera):  Brigaldara’a Cavolo Amarone display darker fruit flavors and more weight than their straight Amarone, yet maintains their signature elegance and balance.  The 16.0 percent stated alcohol is integrated effortlessly into the flavors and weight.  There’s no heat or raisiny flavors here, just purity.  Incredibly bright and long, it finishes with a distinct and alluring tarry minerality and engaging bitterness.  I tasted this wine during the heat of summer, and, despite its size, it still showed beautifully.  I can only imagine how much more delightful it will be with consumed with hearty wintertime fare.  Amarone fans will love it.  Those unfamiliar with the joys of Amarone should start here.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2022