Banfi, Toscano IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Stilnovo” Governo all’Uso Toscano 2017

($15):  The label notes, “Governo all’Uso Toscano,” which means the wine was made using the centuries-old governo method.  With this technique, the winemaker held back some slightly over-ripe or even dried grapes to increase the body of the wine or to re-start a “stuck” fermentation — one that had stopped prematurely.   Although the Stilnovo has an alluring depth it also conveys a surprising lightness and vigor.  It’s a bit spicy with very mild tannins, making it a perfect “pizza” wine.  Remember it this summer because it’s delightful slightly chilled. 
88 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2018