Category Archives: USA – Washington

Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) White Riesling Late Harvest Reserve “Ethos” 2008

($35):  Sweet wines, such as this one (sold in a 375 ml bottle) with 23% residual sugar, need to be judged on their acidity, not their sweetness.  Without adequate acidity, the wine will be cloying and syrupy.  This one has fabulous enlivening acidity and verve that just amplifies the apricot-tinged flavors that explode on the palate. … Read more

Buty Winery, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Phinney Hill Vineyard “Columbia Rediviva” 2008

($50):  Columbia Rediviva was the name of the ship that Captain Robert Gray sailed up the then unnamed river in 1792 searching for the ever elusive northwest passage.  To recognize the importance of the river, Caleb Foster and Nina Buty Foster, owners of the winery, chose it for the name of one of their top wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Syrah blend. … Read more

Pacific Rim, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Selenium Vineyard Vin de Glaciére 2007

($18):  Make no mistake, with 16 percent residual sugar, this is a sweet Riesling, best suited either with cheese or as dessert.  (I am not an advocate of sweet wines with dessert because I think the sweetness of the dessert and the wine fight with one another, but that’s a subject I’ll to leave to Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas’s “Wine With” column). … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Dry Riesling 2009

($9):  This wine is an incredible bargain.  A subtle stone fruit–peach or nectarine–character comes through and harmonizes with a gentle lemony acidity.  Not aggressively dry, a hint of roundness balances Riesling’s inherent acidity.  The style allows you to enjoy a glass as an aperitif and then carry it to the table to accompany a wide variety of dishes from chicken in a mushroomy cream sauce to a garlic-infused seafood stew. … Read more

Andrew Will, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2008

($24):  Chris Camarda, winemaker at Andrew Will, states (not entirely objectively of course) that “This is the best Merlot for the price on the market today.”  After tasting it, it’s hard to disagree.  The economic recession has had its effect, forcing him to cut production of higher priced wines, to funnel some of those grapes into lower tier wines and to cut prices drastically. … Read more

Pacific Rim, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Wallula Vineyard “Biodynamic Cuvée” 2007

($20):  Areas within Washington State, with cooler climate, are emerging as excellent sites in this country for Riesling.  This beautifully balanced one exemplifies why Riesling is gaining in popularity.  A subtle and intriguing interplay of minerality, fruitiness–hints of pear and grapefruit–and just a bare hint of sweetness set off by vibrant acidity makes it an ideal choice as an aperitif, with spicy fare or Asian food. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005

($17): A blend of Merlot (83%), Syrah (14%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is easy to recommend.  The Syrah adds dark fruit character and a roasted quality, while even the seemingly trivial amount of Cabernet lends extra structure and support.  Despite the presence of those two varietals, the inherent lovely leafy or herbal qualities characteristic of Merlot are apparent. … Read more

Col Solare, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine 2005

($75): Col Solare is a Cabernet Sauvignon based joint venture between the Tuscan producer, Antinori, and Washington State’s Chateau Ste. Michelle.  The 2005, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc, is a gorgeous wine.  It’s an impeccably balanced seamless mixture of ripe black fruit and minerality supported by fine tannins and a perfect kick of black cherry acidity. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Colchagua Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Indian Wells” 2005

($17): This well-proportioned beautifully balanced Cabernet is a fabulous buy.  In addition to its succulent black fruit flavors, herbal, almost tobacco, notes delight the senses.  Not overly fruity or heavy, these non-fruit flavors persist into the long finish.  Supple fine tannins add to the polish and elegance of the wine.… Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2005

($28): The comparison of this Cabernet with its stablemate–the Canoe Ridge Merlot–supports my prejudice that Cabernet usually makes more interesting wines.  Layered and complex, the tannins support ripe cassis and black cherry-like fruit.  Thankfully, not an ‘over-the-top’ blockbuster wine, it has exquisite balance while conveying plenty of flavor.… Read more