($16): Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known than Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy
I Clivi di Mario Zanusso, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021
($35): This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi. In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity. I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more. … Read more
Capezzana, Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015
($90, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): The bottles were opened at least a dozen yards away, but the aromas of apricots and nuts stopped all conversation as people looked for the source of the wondrous aromas. Vin Santo is a curious wine, this one especially. … Read more
Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2018
($62, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): This youthful treasure is a single vineyard Sangiovese named after Ugo Contini Bonacossi, the force behind the modern Capezzana estate who sadly passed away in 2013. The production is small, fewer than 3,000 bottles a year, because only the best grapes from this vineyard that Ugo loved go into the wine. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Trefiano” Riserva 2018
($66, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Capezzana produces their Trefiano Riserva, a blend of Sangiovese (80%) with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo, only in the best years. The stunning 2018, a big wine, to be sure, is balanced by spicy, savory notes and an incredible freshness. … Read more
Sommariva, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($17, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): There is Prosecco and then there is the huge step up to Prosecco from the hilly Valdobbiadene – Conegliano region. Of course, it’s a mouthful to pronounce, but it’s worth remembering the distinction when buying Prosecco. … Read more
Castello di Ama, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Pinot Nero “Il Chiuso” 2019
($48): Castello di Ama is known for spectacular Chianti Classico. But Pinot Nero? Isn’t it too warm in Chianti Classico to grow Pinot Nero? Apparently not, judging from this energetic beauty. The expressive aromatics and savory notes suggest the Pinot Nero must be planted in a cool site. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($22): The 2020 vintage in Chianti Classico generally produced rich satisfying wines. Badia a Coltibuono’s certainly fits that mold with dark, but not black, cherry nuances. It has great concentration but more importantly, gorgeous balancing acidity that gives this mid-weight wine enormous energy. … Read more
Fattoria Le Masse, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($45): An electric tension between fruit and firmness energizes this mid-weight wine. Made entirely from Sangiovese, this elegant and sculpted Chianti Classico has a bit of everything, floral aromatics, a steady frame, and a suave texture. Black cherry-like notes add charm to the finish. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Tanca Farrà” 2019
($32, Taub Family Selections): Regulations for the Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC allow the inclusion of any Sardinian red grapes except for aromatic ones. Sella & Mosca use a seamless, fifty-fifty blend of Cannonau and Cabernet Sauvignon to achieve this beauty. Juicy black fruit enrobed with fine tannins make this suave, muscular wine a pleasure to drink now. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero DOC (Sardinia, Italy) 2016
($60, Taub Family Selections): This big but not boisterous wine shows that Sella & Mosca is equally capable with the so-called international grapes as with local ones. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, the Marchese di Villamarina delivers succulent black fruit, plenty of savory notes all wrapped in firm, not hard, tannins. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Riserva (Sardinia, Italy) 2020
($17, Taub Family Selections): Sella & Mosca, despite their size — the largest estate on Sardinia — makes excellent wines. This juicy mid-weight Cannonau, the local name for Grenache, delivers crunchy red fruit combined with a hint of spice. Not a fruit bomb by any means, it actually has an engaging hint of bitterness in its long finish. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019
($28): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust. Put this one in the latter category. Earthy notes support dark fruit character. Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Rosso di Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ghiaie della Furba” 2015
($60, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Ghiaie della Furba, a Super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah from Capezzana, Carmignano’s top producer, is a robust wine when young. Even at eight years of age, this tightly wound beauty reveals its glories slowly as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016
($31, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Carmignano, Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is unique because it requires the use of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, in the blend with Sangiovese. Capezzana makes the benchmark Carmignano. Their 2016, from a spectacular vintage and still widely available retail, is a great introduction to the DOCG. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Cartagho” 2019
($28): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s emblematic grape, produces wines that vary and light and fruity to more substantial and robust. Put this one in the latter category. Earthy notes support dark fruit character. Fine tannins lends support and balance so it doesn’t come across as a “fruity” wine, although there is no lack of black fruitiness. … Read more
Vigna 800, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “La Cesolina” 2020
($35): Light and fresh, Le Cesolina is just what you want with Valpolicella. Don’t misinterpret the light and fresh moniker to mean vapid. Not at all. Though this juicy red wine weighs in at a mere 12.5 percent stated alcohol, it delivers plenty of enjoyment with juicy red cherry-like flavors. … Read more
Caldora, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Italy) 2020
($15, Gonzalez Byass USA): When you run across a wine at this price that’s this enjoyable, it makes you smile. This bright and juicy mid-weight wine has an engaging mix of red fruits accented by a hint of spice. Mild tannins allow immediate enjoyment.… Read more
Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019
($19, SM USA): In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine. Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone. In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now. … Read more
Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017
($61, SM USA): Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol — bold, wintertime wine. Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power. There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity. … Read more
Another addition to the Chianti quality pyramid: tasting Rùfina’s Terraelectae wines
Federico Giuntini Masseti, president of the Chianti Rùfina Consorzio, says that the purpose of Terraelectae – Chianti Rùfina’s new top-tier category- is to highlight the special character of the Sangiovese-based wines from Rùfina’s unique terroir. The producers hope the category will allow Chianti Rùfina to emerge from Chianti Classico’s shadow and be considered a top Tuscan DOCG, like Brunello.… Read more
Masi, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Bonacosta” 2020
($17, SM USA): Masi, one of the leading Valpolicella/Amarone producers, makes a wonderful range of wines. Made from the usual Valpolicella grapes, Corvina, Rolindella, and Molinara, Masi’s mid-weight Bonacosta, their “regular” (though there’s nothing regular about it) Valpolicella Classico delivers juicy bright cherry flavors. … Read more
Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019
($19, SM USA): In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine. Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone. In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now. … Read more
Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017
($61, SM USA): Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol—bold, wintertime wine. Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power. There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity. … Read more
Batasiolo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Riserva 2012
($82, Palm Bay International): In addition to making very fine single vineyard Baroli, Batasiolo makes this Riserva from grapes grown throughout the delimited Barolo region. Indeed, some of the grapes that could have gone into their single vineyard bottlings are used in the Riserva to maintain consistency and quality. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nerello Mascalese “Lavico” 2018
($17, Disaronno International): Consumers unfamiliar with Nerello Mascalese, the signature grape of Sicily’s Mount Etna, should grab this bottle. Lava-like mineral notes complement the sour cherry like ones in this mid-weight red. A long an explosive finish reminds you this is a wine to sip and savor. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2021
($12, Palm Bay International): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements. Take this one, for example. Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nerello Mascalese “Lavico” 2018
($17, Disaronno International): Consumers unfamiliar with Nerello Mascalese, the signature grape of Sicily’s Mount Etna, should grab this bottle. Lava-like mineral notes complement the sour cherry like ones in this mid-weight red. A long an explosive finish reminds you this is a wine to sip and savor. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2021
($12, Palm Bay International): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most main red grape, is worth getting to know because it can deliver an appealing combination of fruitiness mixed with non-fruit elements. Take this one, for example. Its initial delivery is heavy on the fresh, black cherry-like notes. … Read more
Vini Franchetti Tenuta di Trinoro, Toscano Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Cupole” 2020
($35): Cupole is the second wine of Tenuta di Tinoro, a “Super Tuscan” that commands a three-digit price tag — and the first digit is not a one. Like the first wine, Cupole is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot that varies year to year to years depending on how the individual varieties fare during the growing season. … Read more
Batasiolo, Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Granée” 2021
($23, Palm Bay International): Gavi is one of the unsung stars of Italian white wines. This one, from Batasiolo, a top Barolo producer, is made entirely from Cortese grape grown in the village of Gavi, from which the DOCG takes its name.… Read more
Brigaldara, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2020
($35, Vinifera): Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella. The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power. Take this Valpolicella Superiore. It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cantina di Brigaldara” 2012
($210, Vinifera): This decade-old Amarone has developed beautifully and demonstrates the rewards of aging. I suspect Brigaldara’s 2016 Case Vecie Amarone will develop along these lines, which is why I suggest cellaring it. This 2012 Amarone leads with dazzling aromatics. Then, additional complexity — mature flavors along with fresh and dried dark fruit ones — emerges. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2017
($75, Vinifera): Weighing in at 16.5 percent stated alcohol, this broad-shouldered wine is remarkably elegant. Indeed, it’s the elegance you notice, not the power, although that’s hard to ignore. As much as I liked Brigladara’s Valpolicella Classico Casa Vecie, their Amarone just conveys more complexity — a mix of fresh and dried fruit — and power without sacrificing gracefulness. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Cavolo 2017
($70, Vinifera): Brigaldara’a Cavolo Amarone display darker fruit flavors and more weight than their straight Amarone, yet maintains their signature elegance and balance. The 16.0 percent stated alcohol is integrated effortlessly into the flavors and weight. There’s no heat or raisiny flavors here, just purity. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2016
($120, Vinifera): Despite an extra year of bottle age, Brigaldara’s 2016 Amarone “Case Vecie” is far more youthful than any of their 2017s, showing a more tannic structure. Layers of dark dried and fresh fruit notes along with haunting minerality and their hallmark elegance are all still apparent. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Passo delle Mule” 2019
($20, Disaronno International): Duca di Salaparuta, one of the oldest wineries in Sicily, introduced many Americans to the value-packed joy of Sicilian wines decades ago with Corvo, which was made with purchased grapes grown all over the island. Well, Duca di Salaparuta has evolved and now makes a bevy of distinctive estate wines. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Vino Rosso (Piedmont, Italy) “Munaloss” 2020
($17): Garrone, a small, even tiny, co-operative at the foot of the Alps in the northernmost part of Piedmont, is unusual. The Garrone family works about 7.5 acres of vines themselves and has recruited 50 other growers whose holdings total about 25 acres. … Read more
Cantine Garrone, Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Prünent” 2019
($41): One advantage of a co-operative, like Cantine Garrone, is that they have access to old vines. Many of the members of the co-op have small plots that have been in their families for generations. These old-vine plots are too small to commercialize individually, so the farmers send their grapes to the co-op. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) 2020
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Michele Chiarlo, an excellent Piedmont producer known for their Barolo, also makes wine from Barbera, this one and upper level one, labeled La Court, from the Nizza DOCG, which sells for about twice the price (and, I might add, is worth it). … Read more
Fattoria Selvapiana, Chianti Rùfina Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Bucerchiale 2015
($48, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Chianti Rùfina, along with Chianti Classico, is the best subzone of the greater Chianti denomination. Selvapiana is one of Rùfina’s top producers and Vigneto Bucerchiale is their top wine. So, this wine is a “no-brainer,” especially since it has seven years under its belt and has just hit its drinkable window. … Read more
Cantina di Tortona, Colli Tortonesi Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Timorasso “Piccolo Derthona” 2020
($24, Matchvino): Though I reviewed this wine in July 2021, I just enjoyed it again with dinner and felt consumers should know about it. The low-yielding Timorasso grape was popular in the Colli Tortonesi DOC in the pre-phylloxera era but was replaced by the more productive Cortese when growers replanted. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Maremma Toscana DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Campo Maccione” 2021
($16, Taub Family Selections): To capture the crisp clean character of this wine, Rocca delle Macìe harvests the grapes early in the morning, when it is cool. Then, they are kept on dry ice until they reach the winery where a cold fermentation occurs in stainless tanks. … Read more
Pasqua, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry 2020
($18, Pasqua USA): Though Prosecco Rosé might be a brilliant marketing tool, combining too hot categories of wine, in reality it is an official Italian DOC. To qualify, the wines must be vintage dated and contain Pinot Noir, both of which will push up the price. … Read more
Changes in Chianti: A Boon or TMI?
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($25, Volio Imports): What a difference a few hills and a little elevation makes. Year in and year out, Cecchi’s Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Reserva is one of my favorites. The 2018 is no exception. A blend of Sangiovese (95%) and Colorino, there are no international influences of Cabernet, Merlot, or oak-aging. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($48, Volio Imports): Gran Selezione is a new category of Chianti Classico that sits above Reserva, at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. Without getting into the weeds regarding the regulations for Gran Selezione, suffice it to say it should be the producer’s best Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Ribaldoni” 2018
($15, Volio Imports): The 2018 Ribaldoni Chianti Classico comes from Villa Rosa’s youngest vines. Lighter than the similarly priced Primocolle from Villa Cerna, it displays the same seamless balance of bright juicy fruit, spice, and good depth. Not overdone, it is lively and direct, with just the right tannic structure, exactly what you would expect from Chianti Classico. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Primocolle 2019
($15, Volio Imports): The Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany, have two separate and distinct estates in Chianti Classico, Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa. Unsurprisingly, the wines from the two estates are very different because of the diversity of soil, climate, exposure — in sum, the terroir — even over a short distance. … Read more
Bisci, Verdicchio di Matelica (Marche, Italy) 2020
($21): Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known region for this variety by comparison to Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. … Read more