Category Archives: France – Loire Valley

Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2012

($57, Wilson Daniels): Anne Claude Leflaive, who runs Domaine Leflaive, perhaps the most celebrated producer of white Burgundy, and her husband, Christian Jacques, purchased this domaine in 2008.  It’s remarkable to see how a woman who made her reputation making some of the world’s greatest wines from the Chardonnay grape excels with Cabernet Franc. Read more

Domaine FL, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chenin” 2010

($19, Daniel Johnnes Selection): Domaine FL, short for Fournier-Longchamps, has threaded the needle with this wine made from Chenin Blanc.  (French appellation laws generally prohibit grape names on labels.  Hence, Le Chenin is the proprietary name of the wine.)  The wine conveys the fruitiness and roundness–almost a hint of sweetness — that Chenin Blanc delivers supported by a lovely line of acidity that prevents it from being sweet. Read more

Domaine du Haut Bourg, Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Muscadet 2011

($11, Polaner Selections): A small appellation between a lake and the Loire River, Côtes de Grandlieu is a much smaller and less well known subregion of Muscadet compared to Sèvre et Maine. Its location between two bodies of water entails a slightly warmer climate and explains why the wines tend to be just a touch riper than most Muscadet.… Read more

Louis Métaireau, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Carte Noire” 2010

($16, Martine Wines):  Métaireau is one of Muscadet’s best and most consistent producers.  And this wine reflects his considerable talents.  With an unusual ripeness for Muscadet, it still delivers a bracing Granny Smith apple-like vibrancy typical of the appellation.  Mineraly and long, it shows that Muscadet can produce wines with considerable complexity. … Read more

Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu (Loire Valley, France) Clos de la Senaigerie 2008

($13, Michael Skurnick Wines):  I hear the skeptics. A four-year-old Muscadet from what subregion?  Côtes de Grandlieu is a far smaller subregion within Muscadet than the more famous Sèvre et Maine.  It’s a slightly warmer area because its stony soil acts as a heat pump at night and its location between the Loire a large lake moderates the climate.  … Read more

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($24):  Savennières, a tiny appellation on the Loire River, makes unique dry and racy wines from Chenin Blanc, a grape better known for sweet wines.  Baumard is one of the appellation’s leading producers.  Baumard’s 2008, bottled under screw cap to preserve freshness, has an alluring combination of honey-like, but not sweet, richness and savory, sharp, che 91 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012Read more

Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2008

($38):  As good as Baumard’s regular bottling of Savennières is, this one, from a particularly well-sited vineyard, is even better. With more complexity, the interplay of richness and savory herbal notes in the Clos du Papillon creates even more intrigue.  Despite the increased concentration, this maintains impeccable balance and finesse.… Read more

Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2010

($21, Cynthia Hurley Imports):  Vouvray, an under-rated and misunderstood appellation, is home to some terrific wines, like this one.  But the stumbling block for consumers, which prevents more widespread appreciation of the category, is deciphering the level of sweetness.  This one is almost bone dry and mineraly with delicate green apple notes. … Read more

Domaine Serge Laporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2010

($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports):  Although Sauvignon Blanc is the required grape in Sancerre for white wine, authentic Sancerre evokes the place, not the grape.  Fortunately for consumers, Serge Laporte makes authentic Sancerre.  His importer tells me that half of the wine comes from Les Monts Damnés (the damned mountains) in Chavignol, considered by many to be Sancerre’s best site, which could explain why this wine is so distinctive. … Read more

Domaine Jean Teiller, Menetou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2010

($25, AP Wine Imports):  Menetou-Salon, a small appellation near Sancerre, is a good place for consumers to find vibrant Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, like this one from Domaine Jean Teiller.  Not just delivering grapefruit-tinged fruitiness, this conveys a mouth-watering chalky minerality.  Good intensity and length adds to its distinctiveness and makes it easy to recommend.… Read more

Domaine Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “La Coulée Automnale” 2009

($18, Cynthia Hurley Imports):  La Coulée, one of the prime vineyards in Chinon, has multiple owners.  To distinguish his from the rest, Couly-Dutheil, arguably Chinon’s top producer, labels this as “Automnale.”  The 2009 vintage in the Loire, like the rest of France, was fabulous, producing ripe, yet balanced red wines, like this mid-weight one. … Read more

Château de la Ragotière, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Premier Cru de Château” 2009

($15, Vineyard Brands):  Muscadet, especially from the Sèvre-et-Maine subregion, remains an under appreciated source of bright and zesty unoaked wines.   This one, from one of the area’s leading producers, comes from 50-year old vines, which helps explain its fascinating complexity.  Mineraly, flinty even, it has uncommon (for Muscadet) depth and length. … Read more

Domaine des Baumard, Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de Sainte Catherine 2007

($37, Vintus):  Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France)  2007 ($37, Vintus): Baumard is a genius with the Chenin Blanc grape, producing stellar dry wines–Savennières–and glorious sweet ones–Quarts des Chaumes and this single vineyard one from the Côteaux du Layon.  The beauty of this wine is its racy acidity that enlivens it, keeps it fresh and balances the sweetness. … Read more

Château de la Ragotiere, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “Selection Vieilles Vignes” 2008

($14, Vineyard Brands):  Muscadet remains one of the bargain wines in the world.  True, many can be thin and vapid.  But when they have depth and concentration, like this one, their lemony acidity just amplifies their pleasure.  An appealing chalky earthy character accompanies its citrus qualities. … Read more

Philippe Rambeau, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) “Les Lumeaux” 2009

($20, Jean-Marie Dechamps):  Despite the “fume” in its name, I don’t find smokey notes consistently in wines from Pouilly-Fumé.  Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, says he often has difficulty distinguishing wines from Pouilly-Fumé from its across the river town of Sancerre since the soil in many spots on both sides of the river is similar.  … Read more

Les Clissages d’Or, Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($12, Pasternak Wine Imports):  The Clissages d’Or label is a part of the estate of Guy Saget, the very talented Loire producer, and represents their best vats of Muscadet.  And it is very good Muscadet, indeed.  It delivers the bracing vibrant–almost tooth rattling–acidity of Muscadet, but with an enticing chalky element and depth. … Read more