Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2013

($32, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Though based in Beaune and known best as a top Burgundy négociant, Maison Joseph Drouhin consistently produces excellent Chablis from its extensive holdings there.  Its Chablis, “Réserve de Vaudon,” comes from the Vallée de Vauvillien, which is located between Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre, two of the best Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014

($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012.  While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity.  Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines — though still not in the New World ripeness category — will enjoy the 2012. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012

($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.)Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010

($120, Louis Latour USA): No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour.  Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton.  The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. Read more

Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) “En Paradis” 2012

($22): The attention wines from small growers receive from the press, sommeliers and retailers can make us overlook wines from even the best négociants.  That’s always a mistake and this wine is just another case in point.  Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant, owns no land in Pouilly-Vinzelles, an appellation neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé. Read more

Domaine Bertagna, Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Plantes 2009

($95, L’Esprit du Vin): The most amazing thing about this wine is its availability.  Most red Burgundies from 2009 (a stellar year in my view) have long since disappeared from the retail market.  I have said it before, and it’s worth repeating since I’ve tasted scores more since their release, you can’t have too many 2009 red Burgundies in your cellar. Read more

Henri Prudhon, St. Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Argillers 2010

($30, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): St. Aubin, an off the main road village in Burgundy, is known mostly for whites, which, because of recent popularity, has already resulted in considerable prices increase for those Chardonnay-based wines.  The reds, made exclusively from Pinot Noir, such as this one, remain relatively undiscovered–and therefore, reasonably priced. Read more

Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012

($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna.  Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Truffières 2012

($95, Louis Latour USA): Despite the concentration of Latour’s whites in 2012, the wines still reflect their origins.  This wine has a particularly stony edginess that screams Puligny-Montrachet and distinguishes it from the slightly creamier Meursault.  Like Latour’s Meursault Premier Cru, Les Truffières has a welcome vibrancy that balances its riches, amplifies its finish and puts its refinement into sharp relief. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2012

($70, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top-notch producers, hit a bull’s eye with their 2012s.  The vintage produced concentrated wines and capturing acidity, especially for the whites, was a challenge.  Latour succeeded brilliantly.  This Meursault has a beautiful, yet not overripe, density for a premier cru in 2012. Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2012

($155, Louis Latour USA): Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, makes sensational wines year in and year out from that vineyard. Indeed, in my opinion, there is no better producer of Corton-Charlemagne.  As expected from Grand Cru white Burgundy, Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne bottlings evolve gracefully and improve over a decade or two. Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2012

($80, Louis Latour USA): Consumers tend to forget that the top-tier négociants, such as Louis Latour, make wine from grapes grown in vineyards they own in addition to buying grapes from others.  Indeed, Latour, one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, owns a substantial parcel in Vignes Franches, one of the best premier cru vineyards in Beaune. Read more

Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010

($38, Wilson Daniels): Similar to their 2009, Château du Moulin-À-Vent’s 2010 Moulin-à-Vent reflects the vintage’s cooler growing season.   Fresher and more lively than their 2009, the 2010 has an uplifting sour cherry-like finish that begs for another sip.  Still with the granitic edge and firm — not hard — tannins expected from top-notch Moulin-à-Vent, it’s more linear and less opulent compared to the 2009. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010

($18, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé, a small, 500-acre appellation created only in 1998, was carved out of the Mâcon-Villages appellation because the wines from Viré and Clessé (along with a couple of other towns) had considerably more potential.  Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has realized that potential with their 2010 Viré-Clessé. Read more

Château Moulin-À-Vent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($42, Wilson Daniels): Though Château Moulin-À-Vent focuses on their red wines, they also have old Chardonnay-planted vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé.  Their Vieilles Vignes bottling conveys the stony character of Pouilly-Fuissé.  Tightly wound at this stage, I would give it a few years before pulling the cork even though it’s from the 2012 vintage, one known for lower-acid white wines, because there’s no lack of structure here — the old vines speaking, I’m sure.Read more