($30, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Pouilly-Fuissé, the best appellation in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, has such a following in the US that producers can bulk up yields or otherwise cut corners on quality. Drouhin does not. The first sip conveys the refinement that separates this appellation from the rest of the Mâconnais. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2013
($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The Mâcon-Villages regional category of Burgundy is my go-to area for well-priced Chardonnay-based wines. Sadly, the overall quality of Mâcon-Villages is highly variable. That’s why it’s important to find ones from top-notch producers, such as Drouhin, a leading Burgundy négociant. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) “Couvent des Thorins” 2012
($28, Wilson Daniels): Ever since the Parinet family purchased this iconic property in 2009, they have been making marvelous wine. They focus solely on wine from Moulin-à-Vent, one of the top crus of Beaujolais. Moulin-à-Vent is home to well-structured rich wines that often need years of bottle age — these wines are as far away from insipidly fruity Beaujolais-Nouveau as you can get. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Clos des Londres 2009
($100, Wilson Daniels): Yes, you read the price correctly — $100 for a bottle of Beaujolais. But to associate this wine with conventional image of Beaujolais — a fruity easy-to-drink wine — would be a terrible mistake. The wines from Moulin-à-Vent, though a village in the Beaujolais region, rightly stand apart from that region and carry their own appellation. … Read more
René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Le Clos” 2010
($30, Sherbrooke Cellars Selection): Marsannay, the northern most appellation of the Côte d’Or and practically a suburb of Dijon, is one of the last outposts of the “golden slope” where the consumer can find authentic Burgundy at reasonable prices. Most Marsannay is red, but 15 percent of the vineyards are planted to Chardonnay, making it one of the rare white wines from the Côtes de Nuits. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2011
($120, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s Corton Charlemagne comes from its vineyard on the well-positioned southeastern facing Pougets plot on the Corton hill. I was unenthusiastic about the 2011, a wine I usually love, when I tasted it from barrel in Jadot’s cellars because I thought it lacked energy and verve. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($22, Dreyfus Ashby & Co): Warmer years like 2012 or 2009 benefit Burgundy appellations, such as Rully, in the Côte Chalonnaise whose wines can often come across as lean in cooler vintages. Drouhin’s 2012 Rully has plenty of ripe juicy red fruit flavors to balance the stony firmness you’d expect from the wines of this appellation. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roi 2010
($50): The Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in Mercurey, owns about one-third of Clos du Roi, a 30-acre premier cru vineyard. They’ve divided their 10-acres into four distinct plots identified by different soils, which produce Pinot Noir that ripens at slightly different times. … Read more
Domaine de Suremain, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2012
($30): Domaine de Suremain is a top producer in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise where authentic Burgundy can be found at reasonable prices. The 2012 vintage was especially kind in there because it gave the wines a touch extra ripeness that balances the characteristic firmness of the region. … Read more
Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) Pièce du Chapitre 2009
($42): None of the 375 acres of vineyards in Chorey-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune (lès means near), are classified as premier cru because they lie on the flat land as opposed to the better situated sites on the slope. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Ruelles 2011
($44): Château de Chamirey is one of the top producers in Mercurey, probably the best village in the Côte Chalonnaise for red wine. You can’t really go wrong with any of their wines. Les Ruelles, a premier cru vineyard owned exclusively by Château de Chamirey, is especially attractive in 2011. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2012
($16, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): St. Véran, an appellation nestled between Mâcon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé in prestige is often a fine value, offering a more sophisticated wine than the former at a price lower than the latter. Jadot’s 2012 is just that. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($13, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): The 2012 vintage produced ripe white Burgundies, especially good news for “lesser” appellations, such as Mâcon-Villages, whose wines benefit from a touch more ripeness. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, captured sufficient acidity to balance the ripe apple-like flavors. … Read more
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2012
($80, Henriot, Inc.): Vaudésir is always among the top two vineyards in any ranking of Chablis Grand Cru (Les Clos is the other). And Domaine William Fevre is one of Chablis’ consistently finest producers. So it’s not surprising that this is a stunningly stellar wine. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Chablis remains one of, if not the best, values for white wine. Always made exclusively from Chardonnay, Chablis, when produced by dedicated growers such as Christian Moreau, delivers a unique profile of flintiness and verve, even at this lower end of the prestige ladder. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2012
($65, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre is one of the top producers in Chablis. They eschew oak aging preferring to focus on the bracing minerality unique to the Chablis region, which gives their wines a lean, racy edginess. The 2012 vintage was especially well suited to their style because it delivered fully ripe grapes with slightly lower apparent acidity, which meant that some producers’ wines lacked the usual verve of Chablis. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($26): Jean Marc Brocard, always one of my favorite Chablis producers, made a stunning array of wines in 2012. This one, from old vines, whose average age is 68 years, is one of the best village Chablis I’ve ever had. With wonderful intensity–but no heaviness–and balance, it has penetration, energy and extraordinary length, especially for a village wine. … Read more
Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation. The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice. But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Grand Picotins” 2012
($50, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Savigny-lès-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a good source for authentic Burgundy. Alex Gambal, an American who is one of Burgundy’s rising stars, makes elegant and refined wines under the guidance of his winemaker, Geraldine Godot. … Read more
Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012
($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines. The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny. Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2012
($27, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The 2012 vintage in Burgundy is good news/bad news. The good news is that, in general, the reds were excellent. The bad news is that the crop was decreased markedly by bad weather, which means much higher prices. … Read more
Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaulorent 2012
($60, Henriot, Inc.): The Vaulorent vineyard is the only premier cru vineyard that sits on the so-called Grand Cru hill of Chablis and is adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards. Wines from this vineyard are frequently sold under the more recognized vineyard name, Fourchaume. … Read more
Jean Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire” 2012
($20): Borcard hit a bull’s eye with their Chablis in 2012, a relatively riper year. They harvested a bit early and captured gorgeous mouth-watering acidity in their entire line of wines. Their village Chablis, dubbed Sainte Claire, is an extraordinary value given the complexity and verve it delivers. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2012
($27, Dreyfus Ashby & Co): Pouilly Fuissé lacks the respect the appellation deserves. Sure, there’s lots of mediocre wine masquerading under the popular Pouilly Fuissé label. But one taste of Drouhin’s shows why this category is so popular. Drouhin’s 2012 is mineraly, lemony and stony. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011
($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up. This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more
Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2012
($20, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Olivier Leflaive, a talented négociant based in Puligny-Montrachet, consistently produces top-notch white Burgundies at all levels. This east-to-enjoy Bourgogne Blanc, though coming from the low end of the prestige ladder, delivers far more than you’d expect from the price.… Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The yields in Beaujolais in 2012, were, like everywhere else in Burgundy, down dramatically. Stéphane estimates that the average yield in 2012 for Beaujolais in general was about 27 hl/ha, or half normal, which is both good and bad. … Read more
Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “La Framboisière” 2012
($31, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Domaine Faiveley, a leading Burgundy estate and négociant, owns a substantial amount of choice vineyards in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. This village wine from their vineyards, dubbed La Framboisière, is always one of their successes. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2011
($20): This Pouilly Fuissé from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producer, is a “go-to” bottling when looking for a Chardonnay-based wine. Crisp, and clean with a hint of creaminess, it shows the elegance and allure of white Burgundy. Unlike many New World Chardonnays, it’s not opulent. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($34, Dreyfus-Ashby): Côte de Beaune is an unusual appellation, not to be confused (though it often is) with Côte de Beaune-Villages or simply Beaune. It is comprised of a few vineyards located above Beaune — but not in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — on the Montagne de Beaune. … Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011
($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy. Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Philibert 2011
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Since the late 1980s when Jean Nicolas reclaimed previously leased vineyards and took over running the domaine, Méo-Camuzet has rapidly become among the star producers in Vosne-Romanée, with their top reds, Richebourg and Cros Parentoux, selling for $1,000 a bottle. … Read more
Domaine Sainte-Barbe, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2011
($26, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Viré-Clessé is a relatively new appellation (1998) that was created from two towns, Viré and Clessé, that were formerly included with the more general Macon-Villages because the wines from those towns were judged to be more distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011
($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family. Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years. The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($32, Henriot USA): Village wines get short shrift as consumers clamor for wines from Premier Cru vineyards. This village wine combines unexpected concentration with an alluring floral character. It shows the charm of many of the 2011 reds.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013… Read more
Domaine Gallois, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The nice thing about a wine carrying only a Bourgogne appellation from a grower is that you know roughly the origin of the grapes, since they must have come from the grower’s domaine. That explains why this Bourgogne Rouge from Gallois, who is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, tastes like a miniature Gevrey-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more
Domaine Stèphane Magnien, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Densité” 2011
($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Passetoutgrain is a blend of Gamy and Pinot Noir. When the vines are planted in the right place, as in Stèphane Magnien’s case, the wines can be delightful. Magnien makes two different cuvées of a Bourgogne Passetougrain. … Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011
($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or. Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy. Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($21): The town of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte d’Or is a sleeper as a source for well priced white and red Burgundy, especially in 2012, a vintage that was short on quantity, but long on quality. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores. The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity. The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2012
($23, Dreyfus Ashby): Though based in Beaune in the Côte d’Or, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns substantial vineyards in Chablis. Their Réserve de Vaudon, made from grapes grown in their vineyards, is a perfect way to discover this unique style of Chardonnay. … Read more
Maison Robert Drouhin, St. Veran (Burgundy, France) 2011
($16, Dreyfus-Ashby): The 2011 vintage for white Burgundy was a mixed bag with some wines being flabby. Drouhin managed to capture acidity to keep that problem at bay with their lineup. This St. Veran, from an appellation near its more famous neighbor, Pouilly Fuissé, is a stand out at the price. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($55, Boisset USA): Jean Claude Boisset has reinvented itself over the last decade, going from a Burgundy négociant focusing on quantity to one now focusing on quality. It’s a welcome evolution. This Beaune Grèves has plenty of concentration and supporting acidity to keep it balanced. … Read more
Alex Gambal, St. Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2011
($45): The names of Burgundy vineyards are fascinating, often evoking colorful images. This one, one of my favorites, is roughly translated as “the boulders that look like the teeth of the dog.” Alex Gambal’s 2011 from this vineyard is as wonderful as the name. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Saint Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2011
($45, Boisset USA): Boisset, a négociant known for bulk wines, has reinvented itself over the last decade by reducing production dramatically and focusing on quality instead of quantity. It’s been a dramatic and welcome transformation. Under the guidance of winemaker Gregory Patriat, they have produced this stylish St.… Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011
($100, Boisset USA): Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy. The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness. The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2011
($13, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Louis Jadot is as reliable and consistent producer as you will find in Burgundy. Their talents are apparent in this well-priced, bright, Chardonnay-based white Burgundy. Brimming with clean ripe fruit flavors, it has good balancing acidity that keeps it lively. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($45): The Gambal team, led by winemaker Geraldine Godot who joined Gambal in 2009, has captured the “flavor without weight” character of red Burgundy with this elegant Beaune Grèves. Its lacey delicacy belies its impact and persistence. A firm underpinning gives it support and structure. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (France) Chardonnay “Steel” 2012
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back. The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more