Category Archives: Publication

Lucien Boillot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006

($25, Kermit Lynch):  Consumers tend to ignore the 2006 vintage for red Burgundy because it followed–and was overshadowed by–the sensational 2005 vintage.  It’s too bad because many fine wines, such as this one, were made that year.  Though from a “lowly” Bourgogne Rouge appellation, the wine delivers more than the appellation suggests because it was made by a talented producer using only his–not purchased–grapes. … Read more

Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV

($14, Kermit Lynch):  Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards.  He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. … Read more

Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV

($14, Kermit Lynch):  Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards.  He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. … Read more

Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2008

($14, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):  Although the vast amount of wine produced in the Rhone Valley is red, consumers should explore the small amount of white wines that originates there because they offer richness and body.  The only potential downside of Rhône whites, which Guigal avoids, is that they can come across as heavy if they have insufficient acidity. … Read more

Ornellaia: An Italian Icon

“It was luck,” according to Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, that accounted for the extraordinarily rapid ascent of Ornellaia in the eyes of the world.  “It was lucky that Mario Incisa della Rocchetta [owner of Sassicaia] planted Bordeaux varieties when [in the 1940s] and where he did [Bolgheri]. … Read more

Château de Paraza, Minervois (Sud Ouest, France) “Cuvée Spéciale” 2007

($12, Russell Herman World Wines Source):  This typical Mediterranean blend–Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre–delivers a pleasant combination of spice and black cherry fruit-like flavors.  There’s unusual suaveness in this mid-weight wine.  Mild tannins and a lively juiciness makes it an excellent choice for immediate consumption. … Read more

Domaine de Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2009

($13, Skurnik):  As a seafood lover, I personally am pleased to see that the prices of Muscadet have risen far slower than their quality.  Sure, there are plenty of insipid, hollow Muscadets on the market, but when you find a stellar one like this one from Domaine de Herbauges, you can’t help but wonder why they’re not more expensive. … Read more

Domaine Saint Pierre, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) ‘Cuvee Celine’ 2007

($15, Margaux & Co.): Regulations for Corbières mandate that Carignan comprises no more than 50% of the blend to encourage the use of so-called improving varieties. The Cuvée Céline S, a blend of less than one-third Carignan—Syrah (40%) and Grenache account for the remainder—delivers a lovely balance of bright red and black fruit flavors and alluring spicy nuances. … Read more

La Rioja Alta, Rioja (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” Reserva 2000

($33, Skurnik):  Rioja, Spain’s most well-known wine region, is one the rare places where the producer ages the wine for the consumer and releases it when it is ready to drink.  This decade-old wine is their current release.  From one of the region’s traditional–and best–producers, this aged Rioja delivers a panoply of dried fruit flavors, leafy nuances and hints of leather and other non-fruit flavors. … Read more

Spring Whites

With bright sunshine and temperatures flirting with 80 degrees here in the Northeast, it’s time to put parkas and boots away.  Grilled fish dribbled with olive oil and other lighter fare replaces hearty long-simmered stews.  To accompany this change of culinary seasons, lively whites will appear in place of those robust reds. … Read more

Rafael Palacios, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) “Louro do Bolo” 2008

($19, Eric Solomon Selections):  The grapes–100% Godello–come from younger vines in a separate and distinct part of the vineyard from which Palacios produces his iconic As Sortes. Much more aromatic than his As Sortes (reviewed previously), Louro do Bolo has an engaging floral quality atop a hint of minerality and shows the range of wine made from the Godello grape. … Read more

Pena das Donas, Ribera Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Almalarga” 2009

($21):  Consumers unfamiliar with the Godello grape are in for a treat.  Naturally high in acidity, its palate cleansing ability makes it an obvious choice for highly flavored dishes.  Pena das Donas’s rendition, from the small, relatively new DO of Ribera Sacra, undergoes lees-aging in tank, which adds complexity while still preserving the inherent fruitiness of the grape. … Read more

La Conreria d’Scala Dei, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Les Brugueres” 2009

($30, Eric Solomon Selections): Priorat is known for its great red wines.  But distinctive whites can be made there, just as in other great red wine areas, such as the Côtes de Nuits and Pessac-Léognan.  Made entirely from Garnacha Blanca, it leads with a gorgeous floral–almost peachy–nose followed by an engaging earthiness and bracing minerality, all amplified by vibrant acidity. … Read more