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Doña Paula Estate, Cafayate Valley (Salta, Argentina) Torrontés 2009

($12, Vineyard Brands):  This wine is a little deceptive, in a nice way.  With the floral aroma reminiscent of Muscat, it temporarily tricks you into thinking it will be sweet.  But, it’s not.  Racy acidity enlivens the palate.  This versatile wine is equally at home as a before-dinner drink, to offset the heat of spicy Asian cuisine, or to complement roast pork. … Read more

Michel Tête, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Clos du Fief 2007

($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tête, one of the top Beaujolais producers, uses the name Domaine de Clos du Fief for the vineyards he owns in Juliénas, one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais allowed to carry the village name.  Wines from Juliénas typically display a charming rusticity and true to form, this one combines that engaging quality with an earthy—almost briary—character that melds nicely with the bright red fruit flavors. … Read more

Domaine Piron et Lafont, Chenas (Beaujolais, France) Quartz 2006

($18, Michael Skurnick): Chenas is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais whose wines are distinctive and are allowed to carry the village name—instead of the more generic Beaujolais-Villages—on the label.  The name, Quartz, comes from a vein of quartz running through the vineyard and is responsible for the wine’s earthy minerality, which acts as a lovely complement to its red cherry fruit-like flavors.  … Read more

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Stonewell” 2004

($80, Hess Imports):  When I first tasted this wine–their current release–I immediately was reminded of what Louis Latour (the father of the current head of that renowned Burgundy firm) once told me, “Great wines always taste good.”  Those who love young vigorous Shiraz are in for a treat because this one has all you’d expect, plus elegance and refinement–two words not usually used to describe Barossa Shiraz. … Read more

Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Grand Blanc” Brut 2002

($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):  Philipponnat is probably the most under-appreciated Champagne firm.  They make a great array of wines, but, curiously, have little name recognition in this country.  Although they are best known for the Pinot Noir-dominant wines (especially their stunning Clos des Goisses) this Grand Blanc, made exclusively from Chardonnay, shows they are equally talented with that varietal. … Read more

Please, No More Killer Cabernets

My hope for the New Year is that winemakers turn down the “volume” so we wine drinkers can savor the music.

It is clear that current popular taste embraces the ultra-intense style of wine–both white and red.  Alcohol levels in these wines often soar to 15+ percent–and acid levels drop–as winemakers leave grapes on the vine to achieve ever more ripeness. … Read more

Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2009

($15, Vineyard Brands):  The 2009 vintage was particularly successful for New Zealand, according to David Strada, the US representative of New Zealand Wine, because there was no rain during harvest.  This wine supports his assessment.  Always a reliable Sauvignon Blanc, Villa Maria’s Private Bin in 2009 has an extra sense of ripeness which gives it a pleasing texture and fuller mouth feel without losing any of the signature zippy citric pungency. … Read more

Vincent et Jean-Yves Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Maxine” Vieilles Vignes 2008

($43, Vineyard Brands): Made from Sauvignon Blanc vines that are more than 50 years old, this is a great Sancerre, with complexity that comes only from old vines. Fermented and aged in older oak barrels, you feel–not taste–the wood’s effect.  This is not just Sauvignon Blanc; this is Sauvignon Blanc planted in Sancerre with the slightly chalky and earthy flavors unique to that locale. … Read more

Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) Clos de l’Echo 2005

($35, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): Couly-Dutheil is among the top–if not the top–producer of Chinon.  And although he has a more expensive bottling, their Clos de l’Echo is always my favorite of his offerings.  This single vineyard wine from a south-facing rocky slope takes its name from the echo generated between it and the château in Chinon.… Read more

Patient Cottat, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2007

($11, Vineyard Brands):  The Fournier family owns three domaines in and around Sancerre, in the heart of the Loire Valley, and is one of that region’s leading producers.  In addition to their excellent appellation controllée Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, they produce this bright and lively Sauvignon Blanc, the same grape used in those two appellations. … Read more

Domaine Cherrier et Fils, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2008

($25, Vineyard Brands):  Many Sancerre these days lack distinctiveness and taste more like simple Sauvignon Blanc.  Not this one, which shows why the vineyards around the tiny town of Sancerre on the Loire River have such a good reputation.  Sure, it has the bright zesty verve of Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s real Sancerre, with layers of chalky minerality–even a smoky flinty element–and depth.… Read more

Burgundy on the Rise

Burgundians were heralding the quality of the 2009 vintage–perhaps another “vintage of the century”–even before the grapes were harvested, let alone transformed into wine.  That’s because the weather during the growing season predicted an extremely successful vintage.  Prices at the just concluded 2009 Hospices de Beaune auction confirm the locals’ enthusiasm for the vintage. … Read more

Mohua, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2008

($20, Vineyard Brands):  Twenty bucks for lovely Pinot Noir–Mohua (pronounced mow-who-a) has given us a Christmas present.  A touch of earthy intrigue adds balance to this fruit-forward Pinot Noir.  The tannins are barely noticeable which allows for immediate enjoyment.  Despite its stated 14% alcohol, it has a lovely laciness that distinguishes it from the heavy overdone style of Pinot Noir flooding the market.… Read more

Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006

($19, Becky Wasserman Selection):  Julienas is one of the ten crus–best villages–within the Beaujolais region.  This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness.  Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive.  It’s a perfect “bistro” wine.… Read more

Château Lascaux, Côteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006

($15, Kermit Lynch):  The Côteaux du Languedoc is an appellation (25,000 acres, roughly half the size of Napa) within the enormous Languedoc (500,000 acres) (in southern France on the west side of Rhône River where the typical Rhone varieties thrive.  A classic blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (35%) and Mourvedre, the Chateau Lascaux is filled with spice and herbal elements mingled with black fruit flavors. … Read more

Terre Rouge, California (United States) Syrah “Les Côtes de l’Ouest” 2005

($18):  Winemaker and owner Bill Easton bottles his wines made from Rhône grapes–Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier–under the Terre Rouge label, using the eponymous name for those made from other varietals.  All of the vineyards that produce grapes for this wine face west, hence its name, Les Côtes de l’Ouest. … Read more

Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

($27):  A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) with a little Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc, it’s riper and more fruit forward than the usually more restrained Cabernet from South Africa.   Hints of non-fruit flavors peek through and add complexity.  Firm tannins and lively acidity help keep it from going over-the-top, but I can’t help wondering if some South African winemakers are catching the international high alcohol and slightly overripe virus.… Read more

Hess, California (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

($17): A blend of fruit from Mendocino, Lake, and Napa counties–with no one area exceeding the magical 85% number–means the label carries the general California appellation.  But that should not deter you from buying this solid, enjoyable Cabernet.  Blended with Syrah (8%) and Merlot (4%), this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers ripe flavors–without being overdone–supported by fine tannins. … Read more

The Wines of . . . Madrid?

When you think of Madrid, what pops into your mind?  Vino or Prado?  Prado, of course, one of the world’s most magnificent museums.  But Madrid, not the city proper, but the autonomous region of Madrid–the roughly 3,000 square miles around the city–is home to about 50 wineries who produce a wide range of wines from indigenous as well as international grapes. … Read more

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: All the Same?

“All Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc tastes the same,” is the major misconception that the industry must combat, according to Darryl Woolley, Chief Winemaker for the Constellation Group, which controls about ten percent of Marlborough’s production through their labels.  Certainly the hallmark of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is the zesty, pleasantly pungent, grapefruit-like zing that makes these wines extraordinarily versatile–and popular–with a wide variety of foods, from simply grilled fish to Asian-influenced cuisine. … Read more