Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2017

($68):  First planted in 1973 by the Pellegrini family, the Olivet Lane Vineyard was one of the first in the Russian River Valley devoted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Merry Edwards has used Pinot Noir from Olivet Lane for a single-vineyard bottling since the founding of her winery in 1997.  Though I’ve always been a great fan of her Olivet Lane bottling, I think the 2017 is likely their best ever.  The 2017 Olivet Lane, like other Merry Edwards wines from that vintage, has vibrant acidity, which harmonizes perfectly with the wine’s power.  This energetic wine is like a combination of the Flax Vineyard and Bucher Vineyard, with the structure and minerality of the former and the charming fruitiness of the latter.  Plus, it has a wonderfully plush, velvet-like texture. Its long finish with an enticing hint of bitterness just adds to its appeal.  This is a riveting Pinot Noir — powerful, yet bright and energetic.
97 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2020