Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

($58):  Jordan made the difficult decision several years ago to abandon their longstanding and original concept of an estate wine, that is, one made entirely from their own grapes.  They made the honest assessment that their grapes were not always the best ones that were available.  It must have been a scary decision.  In retrospect, it was a brilliant move.  They now use their best grapes plus ones from a dozen or more growers to fashion their Cabernet.  The 2016, a classic Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), Merlot (11%), Petit Verdot (7%) and Malbec, maintains their classic refined style.  Jordan has always focused on an understated elegance and their 2016 fits that mold perfectly.  With a glossy texture, it delivers layers of fruit, spice and savory elements.  As it sits in the glass for a half an hour, it expands.  Thankfully, it is not in the bigger is better style.  An engaging hint of bitterness in the finish reminds us that they have avoided the temptation to pick super-ripe grapes and make an over-the-top jammy Cabernet.
94 Michael Apstein May 19, 2020