Boutari, Santorini PDO (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018

($64, Terlato Wines International):  Boutari, founded in Naoussa in Macedonia in 1879 and is one of the best-known producers of Greek wines, started making Assyrtiko on Santorini about 30 years ago.  They wisely put the phonetic pronunciation of the grape name, which may be unfamiliar to Americans, on the back label.  (In my opinion, other producers would be wise to follow suit because if you can’t pronounce a wine it’s unlikely you’ll order it.)  It’s an excellent introduction to Assyrtiko from Santorini because it’s more accessible at this youthful stage than many.  Though not as steely and mineral-y as some other renditions, it nonetheless conveys those qualities.  A bright, citrus-like tang in the finish amplifies its charms and makes you come back for more.  I can’t explain the price, since it is roughly twice the price of the 2017 vintage, according to wine-searcher.com.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 7, 2020