Tselepos, Peloponnese (Greece) Amalia Brut NV

($29, Cava Spiliadis):  Sparkling wine from the Peloponnese has no legal appellation, but that has not stopped producers from making good ones.  Tselepos, uses the Moschofilero grape and the traditional method of a secondary fermentation in the bottle (as in Champagne) to produce this delightful one.  The floral aromatics are immediately engaging.  A pleasing roundness and its delicate perfume make it easy to enjoy by itself, but a spine of acidity, the Moschofilero grape speaking, allows it to hold up against grilled red snapper.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 24, 2019