Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Touraine, Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2017

($25):  Though the vast majority (>95%) of wine from Chinon is red and made from Cabernet Franc, noteworthy and distinctive whites made from Chenin Blanc also carry that appellation.  This is one of them.  Couly-Dutheil is one of the top Chinon producers, making a bevy of easy-to-recommend reds year after year, so it should come as no surprise that they can make this stellar white wine.  Cutting acidity in the finish balances and amplifies its peachy nuances.  A lush texture and even the barest hint of stone fruit bitterness adds complexity and allure.  It reminds us the Chenin Blanc planted in the right place and make into wine by the right people makes one of the world’s great wines.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2019