($40, Montcalm Wine Importers):  I know my editor, and others, are wondering how I could possibly could give 95 points to a Vermentino.  Taste it and you’ll see.  As much as I like Lunae Bosoni’s “Grey Label” Vermentino, this, their so-called “Black Label,” is just better.  It has everything that their Grey Label has, but is longer, denser, more complex.  In brief, it’s a more complete wine.  Both floral and mineral-infused, it’s amazingly long and bright.  It has enormous energy that persists into the finish and then some.  It’s one of the best Vermentinos I’ve ever had.  The leap in quality is likely due to both a careful selection of grapes and a bit, but not too much, of skin maceration in the winery.  On a personal note, usually, after I taste samples that have been sent to me, I give the remainder of the bottles to friends.  Not this one.  I drank it with our dinner of grilled swordfish in a robust tomato caper sauce.  Gambero Rosso, one of Italy’s most prominent wine reviewers, has awarded this wine tre bicchieri (three glasses), its highest ranking, 10 years in a row.  I’m betting this will be the 11th.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 23, 2019