Cantine San Marzano, Salento (Puglia, Italy) Malvasia Nera “Talò” 2017

($17, San Marzano USA):  Puglia, in Italy’s heel, is home to rich red wines, in part, because of the area’s warmth and sunshine.  It is also home to lots of small grape growers, many of whom are interested in making wine.  So, in 1962 a group of 19 growers organized the San Marzano cooperative (no relation to the DOP tomatoes from Campania) and began making wine.  The co-op has evolved from producing wine sold off in bulk to bottling it, beginning in the 1990s.  This Malvasia Nera has supple tannins to accompany its power and an intriguing slightly bitter finish, which makes it a fine choice for a hearty pasta dish.
90 Michael Apstein Apr 2, 2019