Poderi e Cantine Oddero, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) “Vigna Rionda” 2007

($160):  From Vigna Rionda, an acclaimed vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, Oddero has fashioned this still — at 10 years — a youthful wine.  Oddero started to label wine from this vineyard as a Riserva with the 2006 vintage and released it after 10 years of aging, five of which were in barrel.  With a tarry, iron-tinged signature, the 2007 is a quintessential Barolo from Serralunga.  Still firm with a noticeable tannic structure, this tightly wound wine reveals its substantial charms with time in the glass.  A dense and hefty wine, it still needs another decade of age.  For those without patience or a cool cellar, decant it an hour before serving it with a cut of robust beef this winter. 95 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2017