Ottella, Lugana Riserva (Veneto, Italy) “Molceo” 2014

($30): Wines like this one will make Lugana a common name.  That Ottella could make a wine this polished in 2014, a “challenging” year, to say the least, shows the dedication of this producer.  It’s floral and elegant, with just the right understated hints of tropical fruit. It has good concentration and spice with a lovely lemony finish.  Clean and bright, without a trace of off-flavors, they must have selected the grapes with tweezers given the difficulty with the harvest in 2014.  Here’s a delightful white for a Wednesday night roast chicken.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2017