Duckhorn Vineyards, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

($95): The expected power befitting a “mountain wine” is front and center.  But the surprise is its incredible elegance for its size and weight.  Alluring mineral-y earthy flavors balance the dark black fruit notes in this very polished wine.  Succulent and long, it’s paradoxically powerful, yet subtle — quite an amazing combination.  You’re struck by its musculature immediately, but on reflection, you realize it’s also graceful.  Tasted side by side with the Cabernet from the Patzimaro Vineyard you easily see the many facets of Napa Valley, but you might find it difficult to choose a favorite.
95 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2016