Alcance, Maule Valley (Central Valley, Chile) Carmenere Gran Reserva 2013

($22): This Carménère from Alcance, a Chilean winery under the umbrella of the Jackson Family Wines Collection, is a good introduction to this grape.  Carménère was formerly planted in Bordeaux but has fallen out of favor there because it is a late-ripening variety that often failed to reach maturity there.  That’s not a problem for it in Chile.  This appealing example combines ripe red and black fruit flavors with the alluring herbal or leafy character inherent to the grape.  Mild supple tannins allow for immediate enjoyment — perhaps with grilled chicken — while providing sufficient structure.  Bright acidity keeps it interesting throughout a meal.  For those averse to any “leafy” character in a wine, select a bottle of Alcance’s Merlot, which delivers more obviously fruity character to pair with the aforementioned grilled chicken.
89 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2016