Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (California) Pinot Noir “Ten Degrees” 2013

($120): In 1997 when Duckhorn, a top Napa Valley producer that focuses on Merlot, embarked on producing Pinot Noir, they wisely sought vineyards in an area more conducive to that variety.  Broadly speaking, Merlot does best in a warm climate, whereas Pinot Noir thrives in cooler climes.  They selected Anderson Valley in Mendocino County, which, being north of Napa and closer to the Pacific Ocean, is cooler.  Judging from their lineup of Pinot Noir, especially this one, they made an excellent decision.  Ten Degrees, Goldeneye’s top Pinot Noir, represents the best blend from their four estate vineyards.  The 2013 is positively gorgeous, with a fascinating harmony of earthiness and fruitiness, wrapped in suave tannins.  Flavors explode and expand on the palate without a trace of heaviness.  Uplifting acidity amplifies the enjoyment.  It grows in the glass so don’t rush to finish it.  Just savor it.
97 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016