Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Grandes Vignes” 2013

($30, Jeanne Maris de Champs Selection): Marsannay, an obscure appellation among the rarified sites in Côte de Nuits, is home to incredible values for Burgundy.  I know “incredible value for Burgundy” is an oxymoron, which is why consumers should remember the name Marsannay, a tiny village, which is practically a suburb of Dijon.  The appellation has no premier cru sites — it only achieved village appellation status in the mid 1980s — but the growers here highlight a variety of place names, such as Grandes Vignes, which produce distinctive wines.  Domaine Bart is one of the over-achievers in this appellation.  You could close your eyes and select one of his single-vineyard Marsannay and be happy.  The 2013 Grandes Vignes has a charming rusticity, good depth and the elusive “flavor without weight” of Burgundy.  Domaine Bart’s wines, even those from “minor” village appellations, develop and evolve beautifully with bottle age, so there’s no hurry to drink this one tonight.  That said, if you’re roasting a chicken and serving it with sautéed mushrooms….
90 Michael Apstein Apr 5, 2016