($94, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Christian Moreau is one of the very top producers in Chablis.  This producer rarely stubbles, even in a vintage, such as 2013, a “difficult” one caught between two superb ones — 2012 and 2014.  A vintage like 2013 fraught with uneven ripening and rot tests a producer’s ability to work in the vineyard and sort the grapes at harvest.  Moreau passed with flying colors with this Vaudésir, a vineyard that vies with Le Clos for the top billing of the Chablis Grand Cru.  Moreau has combined richness and smokiness with a verve and elegance befitting a Grand Cru.  Intense and long, without being over sized, it transmits the uniqueness of great Chablis.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016